Situated in the northwestern edge of Africa, the Kingdom of Morocco is the only constitutional monarchy in the Maghreb. Unlike other countries – Mauritania, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya, all being republics – in the region, although Morocco did fall under colonial influence, it was a protectorate of European powers but not colonised outright. Morocco covers some 710,000 sq km (twice the size of Germany) or 446,000 sq km (equal to Sweden), depending on whether the disputed territory of Western Sahara is included, and has a population totalling 34 million (roughly half of France).
The name Morocco entered the English lexicon via Spanish from Marrakesh, currently the 4th largest city and formerly capital of the country, whereas Morocco’s Arabic name means precisely “Kingdom of the West”. Separated by less than 15km at the narrowest point of the Strait of Gibraltar, Morocco is geographically more Atlantic than Mediterranean. It is often said that Morocco possesses the best climatic conditions for wine production in North Africa.
Moroccan viticulture was either introduced by the Phoenicians or started by the indigenous Berbers, who still constitute a clear majority of the Moroccan population. In Roman times, Mauretania Tingitana (now Morocco) was noted for producing quality wines, and it would remain a Roman province until the early Muslim conquests in the 7th century. As Islamic dietary laws generally prohibit the consumption of alcohol, Morocco disappeared from the vinous map for nearly 1,200 years, until the arrival of the French in the 19th century.
With French know-how, capital and not least the massive market within the colonial empire, Moroccan wine enjoyed its heyday. Morocco did not produce as much wine as Algeria, but it was perceived to be of higher quality. When the French Fourth Republic relinquished the protectorate in 1956, Morocco had some 55,000ha under vine (equivalent to half of modern day Bordeaux). With the loss of French expertise and market, Morocco once again disappeared from the vinous map.
Much of the contemporary renaissance of Moroccan wine has to be attributed to Hassan II, father of the incumbent Mohammed VI. The Moroccan ruling elite were – and are – mostly French-educated, and Hassan II was no exception. With the second arrival of the French, Moroccan wine began developing again since the 1990s, producing mostly red wines from, unsurprisingly, many French varieties. With one AOC and more than a dozen AOGs (appellation d’origine garantie), Morocco is the 2nd biggest wine-producing country in Arab world, after Algeria.
Established in 1923 and now run by Thalvin, Domaine des Ouled-Thaleb is the oldest operative wine producer of Morocco and a spearhead of the contemporary renaissance of Morocco wine.
Thalvin Domaine des Ouled-Thaleb Médaillon Rouge 2011
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Syrah aged for 12 months in barrels and 6 months in bottles. Rich garnet with carmine-purple rim, the fresh nose offers bilberry, smoke and geranium. With sufficient acidity and greenish tannins, the tangy palate delivers damson, coffee and leather. Medium-light bodied at 13.5%, the fruity entry carries onto a soft mid-palate, leading to a light finish.
Thalvin Domaine des Ouled-Thaleb Aït Souala Rouge 2011
A blend of 50% Arinarnoa (Merlot x Petit Verdot), 25% Tannat and 25% Malbec aged for 24 months in barrels and tanks. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose presents black cherry, dark chocolate and cedarwood. With ample acidity and rich tannins, the solid palate supplies damson, coffee and game. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the juicy entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a tart finish.
Thalvin Domaine des Ouled-Thaleb Tandem Syrah 2008
A single-varietal Syrah by the renowned Rhône winemaker Alain Graillot. Rich garnet with cardinal-purple rim, the aromatic nose furnishes dried cherry, clove, dark chocolate and sandalwood. With generous acidity and dense tannins, the rounded palate provides dried plum, black olive, coffee and game. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the concentrated entry persists through a supple mid-palate, leading to a long finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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