The Septentrional Guardians

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

However precise the Burgundian classification system is intended to be, it is intricate and somehow mystical. Starting from the sub-division of regions, the quest for Burgundy begins with the 100 regional and communal AOCs, continuing to the 30+ Grand Crus, nearly 700 Premier Crus and a seemingly infinite number of climats. The satisfaction of studying Burgundy is curiously similar to walking a labyrinth.
The northernmost appellation of Burgundy proper, Marsannay – AOC since 1987 – is known as Porte d’Or (“golden gate”) to Côte-de-Nuits. Vineyards were planted here since 7th century, variously owned by the Abbey of St Pierre and Saint Paul of Bèze, Bishop of Autun and subsequent Dukes of Burgundy, whereas top patrons included Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI. With 225ha under vine, Marsannay is the only village-level appellation in Burgundy producing rosé, for which it was renowned since early 20th century, and it is also the only village-level appellation producing wines of all three colours.
Sandwiched between Marsannay and Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin – AOC since 1936, when it was first established – is the second most northerly appellation of Burgundy. Sometimes referred to as mini Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin is a red-dominated appellation, producing potent red wines which require cellaring. Of its 100ha under vine, 95ha are planted with Pinot Noir, a fifth of which is classified as Premier Cru, 6 in total. Often overshadowed by its glittering neighbour in the south, Fixin is a shrew buy with very good price-quality ratio.
Established in Gevrey-Chambertin as coopers and farmers in 1740s, the Naigeon family has been winemakers since 1890. Now with Pierre Naigeon at the helm, the domaine owns 11.5ha of vineyards, including plots of the prominent Grands Crus of Charmes-Chambertin, Mazy-Chambertin, Bonnes-Mares and Corton.

Domaine Pierre Naigeon Marsannay La Charme Aux Prêtres Vieilles Vignes 2011

Sourced from 45-year old vines, berries were manually harvested, rigorously sorted and fermented with natural yeast. Matured in oak barrels – 25% new – for a year, the wine was bottled without pomping, fining and filtering. Merely 1,116 bottles were produced. Rich ruby with rosso corsa reflex, the lifted and lively nose presents strawberry, redcurrant, red cherry, sous bois and smoke, decorated by violet. Supported by active acidity and delicate tannins, the cheerful and succulent palate provides red apple peel, white cherry, raspberry, cinnamon and wild mushroom, garnished with geranium. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the fruit-driven entry continues through a grippy mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. From the respectable 2011 vintage, this wine will reach its full potential in 2-3 years.

Domaine Pierre Naigeon Fixin Premier Cru Les Hervelets Vieilles Vignes 2008

Sourced from 70-year old vines situated on hilltop, berries were manually harvested, rigorously sorted and fermented with natural yeast. Matured in oak barrels – 50% new – for a year, the wine was bottled without pomping, fining and filtering. Merely 980 bottles were produced. Clear garnet with cardinal-chestnut rim, the aromatic and substantial nose offers cassis, black cherry, liquorice, nutmeg and smoked meat, adorned with iris. Buttressed by generous acidity and fine-grained tannins, the floral and spiced palate delivers bilberry, blackberry, eucalyptus, allspice and porcini mushroom, elaborated with rose. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the subtle entry evolves into a multifarious mid-palate, leading to a refined finish. From the decent 2008 vintage, this wine will benefit from mid-term cellaring.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.