The Latino-Slavic Crossroad

Subsequent to the dissolution of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (a.k.a. USSR or Soviet Union), the former Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (a.k.a. Moldavian SSR) became the independent Republic of Moldova (a.k.a. Moldova) in 1991. Sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is where Latin culture meets its Slavic counterpart. For centuries, Russia – whether in the form of the Russian Empire, Soviet Union or Russian Federation – has always exerted much influence in Moldova, so much so that the Moldovan language – practically an alias for Romanian, as in the case of Dutch and Flemish – is still written in both Latin and Cyrillic scripts.
Covering ca. 34,000km2, Moldova is slightly smaller than Baden-Württemberg, or slightly larger than Burgundy, with a population of ca. 3 million. Small as it may seem, Moldova is a country with vines and wines ingrained in its history, language and traditions. To begin with, many Moldovans like to think that the country looks exactly like a bunch of grapes.
Viticulture in modern-day Moldova was probably initiated by the ancient Dacians some 5,000 years ago, and its wine was mentioned in Homer’s Illiad in 8th century BC. Wine trade began in 3rd century BC with the Greek city-states, and in 1st century AD with the Roman Republic, which relied on the fertile land of ancient Dacia as its granary. Moldavia enjoyed a golden age of wine in the 14th century, when Eastern Orthodox monasteries, just like their Roman Catholic counterparts in France and Germany, became centres of winemaking. During the reign of Stefan the Great in 15th century, wine became Modavia’s main export.
In the 16th century, Moldavia found itself at the forefront of Ottoman invasion. In the struggle between Christianity and Islam, wine was a matter of national identity for the Moldavians who, as Eastern Orthodox, celebrated the Holy Communion. After falling to the Ottoman Empire, vines and wines in Moldavia were curbed, same as in other conquered regions such as Bulgaria and Greece. The dark age of Moldavian viticulture lasted some 300 years, until the Treaty of Bucharest in 1812, when Moldavia was ceded to the Russian Empire, whose aristocrats quickly fell in love with Moldavian wine.
Asconi Winery is located in the village of Puhoi, ca. 35km south of the capital Chișinău. The history of Puhoi can be traced back to the 15th century, when Stefan the Great was said to have built 44 churches and monasteries in the region, one for each battle that he won – 44 out of 48, a record comparable to Napoleon. Large-scale winemaking in Puhoi began in 1958, and Asconi Winery was established in 1994. With 506ha planted with both indigenous and international varieties, Asconi Winery exports most of its wines to Russia, the EU, the US and China.

  Asconi Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Bright citrine with pastel golden reflex, the nose is aromatic and unusual, offering apricot pit, pistachio and white smoke. Supported by lively acidity, the palate is fruit-driven and zesty, delivering grapefruit, green apple and passion fruit. Medium-bodied at 12%, the citrusy entry continues through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a juicy finish.

Asconi Chardonnay 2011
Light citrine with pale golden reflex, the nose is delicate and uplifting, providing lime peel, lemon and fresh butter. Braced by bounteous acidity, the palate is minerally and pure, supplying grapefruit, starfruit and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 13%, the refreshing entry carries onto a tangy mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Chateau Asconi Merlot 2009
Rich garnet with bright cardinal-ruby rim, the nose is heady and intense, effusing cassis, plum, nutmeg, dark chocolate, cigar and leather. Buttressed by generous acidity and rich tannins, the palate is masculine and potent, presenting damson, prune, cocoa, black coffee, game and charcoal. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the imposing entry evolves into a smoky mid-palate, leading to an enduring finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

To discover the hidden treasure of Moldovan wine, contact Mr Quinton Lee of Lok Va (Nova) Trading Company Ltd; E: quinton.lee@fuvai.com; T: +853 2852 2483

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages