(Continued from “The Golden State II” on 30 October 2015)
The Central Coast is a large and geographically elongated regional AVA (American Viticultural Area) stretching from San Francisco Bay to Santa Barbara, covering along the way portions of 6 counties. Home to the cult wine Sine Qua Non, Central Coast has a host of outstanding AVAs – such as Chalone, Paso Robles, Santa Cruz Mountains and Santa Maria Valley – to rival those of Napa County and Sonoma County. Due to its proximity to the Pacific, Central Coast has significant maritime influence, but as is often the case in California and indeed the US, the sheer size of a particular wine-producing region makes it difficult to generalise its climate and terroir.
Situated in the southern part of Central Coast, Paso Robles is one of California’s largest and Central Coast’s brightest district-level AVAs. While viticulture in many California AVAs started during the Gold Rush in the mid-19th century, Paso Robles can trace its viticultural history back to the 18th century, when Franciscan missionaries brought vitis vinfera to the region. Built by the Franciscan order, Mission San Miguel Arcángel still exists today. Certain species of vitis – possibly vitis labrusca – had been in existence before the arrival of Franciscan missionaries, but there is no evidence to suggest that a wine culture was developed by the local Salinan Native Americans.
As elsewhere in California, Paso Robles and the wider Central Coast were badly hit by Prohibition, but experienced a renaissance in the 1960s, followed by international recognition starting from the 1980s. Situated a full 10 degrees closer to the equator than Burgundy, Central Coast is curiously famed for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, plus the ubiquitous Bordeaux varieties and Zinfandel. Meanwhile, Paso Robles is well regarded for its Bordeaux varieties and Zinfandel, but above all its Rhône varieties – it even hosts the “Hospice du Rhône” every year.
Often referred to as “America’s vine and wine”, Zinfandel actually originated from the Old Continent. It is now widely accepted that Zinfandel reached the East Coast in the 1820s, having travelled from the Austrian capital of Vienna. With the advent of DNA profiling in the 1990s, Zinfandel was proved to be identical to the Italian Primitivo, and indeed Croatian Crljenak Kaštelanski (also known as Tribidrag). During the 1980s, Zinfandel was often made into White Zinfandel, essentially a pale rosé, but now it has established itself as a single-varietal red with a distinctive American accent. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To be continued…
Rob Murray Force of Nature Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Dark garnet with carmine-purple rim, the aromatic nose emanates boysenberry, plum, tomato leaf, cocoa, hot iron and geranium. Supported by generous acidity and ripe tannins, the redolent palate supplies black cherry, cassis, tobacco, caffè ristretto, graphite and sous bois. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the dense entry persists through a corpulent mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.
Rob Murray Force of Nature Chardonnay 2013
Bright citrine with pastel golden reflex, the fragrant nose offers lemon peel, Williams pear, mirabelle, vanilla spice, brioche and acacia. Braced by vivacious acidity and clear minerality, the lush palate delivers physalis, peach, sweet ginger, bouquet garni, salted butter and chamomile. Medium-bodied at 14.4%, the fruity entry continues through an intense mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
Rob Murray Force of Nature Zinfandel 2013
Bright garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the potent nose effuses bilberry, prune, herbes de Provence, dark chocolate, leather and hot iron. Buttressed by lively acidity, firm tannins and palpable minerality, the spicy palate furnishes blueberry, damson, black pepper, caffè americano, tobacco leaf and game. Medium-full bodied at 14.7%, the juicy entry carries onto a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a long finish.
To uncover the charm of Paso Robles gems, contact Mr Ross Chan of CCF Wines;
W: www.ccfwines.com; E: rosschan@ccfwines.com
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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