The comparison and contrast between Bordeaux and Burgundy seem to have an uncanny power to constantly attract passionate arguments from both camps. This age-old topic is argued along the lines of grape varieties, wine styles, classification systems and predestined terroirs, each of which can be a battleground unto itself. Much attention has been paid to the classification systems, which concern administration and regulation, yet the social impact of legislation is often overlooked.
Whereas Bordelais châteaux generally can acquire new vineyards, merge and demerge, provided that the new acquisitions are located within the same appellations, Burgundian domaines face significantly more constraints due to the region’s complex demarcation of appellations, created centuries ago by the Benedictines and their spiritual offspring the Cistercians. Burgundian vineyards, liexu-dits and climats tend to be smaller than their Bordelais counterparts.
The introduction of the Napoleonic Code further complicated the matter. By abolishing primogeniture (inheritance by the firstborn son), every male heir gained an equal right to the estate (assets). At roughly 50ha, Clos de Vougeot, a grand cru vineyard, was and is one of the largest. The property used to be wholly owned by the Cistercians, but was confiscated after the French Revolution and allocated to the people. As the original owners expired, the properties were as required by law passed on equally to their male heirs, resulting in today’s fragmented situation in which Clos de Vougeot was owned by more than 80 persons, each with a tiny parcel.
Due to the miniscule vineyard area and therefore production volume, many producers in Burgundy are family-owned smallholdings. Unable to launch marketing campaigns as large-scale Bordelais châteaux, négociants are particularly important stakeholders in the business landscape. In view of the numerous village-level, premier cru-level and grand cru-level appellations, if the Bordeaux en primeur campaign tests a merchant’s business acumen, then the commercial operation of Burgundian wines would be the cornerstone of the merchant’s knowledge.
Les Vignerons de Mancey Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Noirs NV
Bright lemon-yellow with pale golden reflex, the refreshing nose offers lime peel, green apple and fresh bread. With crispy acidity, clear minerality and fine mousse, the tangy palate delivers pomelo peel, starfruit and seashell. Medium-bodied at 12%, the invigorating entry carries onto a citrusy mid-palate, leading to a clean finish.
Domaine Philippe Cheron Vosne-Romanée les Barreaux 2012
Rich garnet with carmine-purple rim, the refined nose effuses raspberry, redcurrant, potpourri and sous bois. With rich acidity, silky tannins and chalky minerality, the stylish palate emanates cranberry, red cherry, bouquet garni and rose petal. Medium-bodied at 13%, the composed entry continues through a balanced mid-palate, leading to a long finish.
Domaine Agnès Dewé Mercurey Premier Cru les Veleys 2011
Rich garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the discreet nose presents raspberry, strawberry, sandalwood and iris. With bounteous acidity, fine tannins and palpable minerality, the measured palate supplies red cherry, redcurrant, rose tisane and geranium. Medium-bodied at 13%, the restrained entry transforms into a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a juicy finish.
Domaine Jean Chauvenet Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru aux Argillas 2008
Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the perfumed nose exudes red cherry, plum, cocoa, balsam, sandalwood and violet. With spirited acidity, velvety tannins and structured minerality, the endearing palate oozes cranberry, raspberry, cinnamon, vanilla spice, rose tisane and lavender. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the floral entry evolves inot a redolent mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To unearth the hidden gems of Burgundy, contact Mr Ross Chan of CCF Wines; W: www.ccfwines.com; E: rosschan@ccfwines.com
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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