Absinthe is well-known for its association with unruly bohemianism in 19th century France, but when it comes to social unrest, no other drinks surpass gin in 18th century England.
Subsequent to the Protestant-led Glorious Revolution in 1688, England began to reinforce economic development during the reign of co-regents William and Mary. The government allowed distilleries to produce spirits licence-free, hoping thereby to promote trade and raise grain prices. As Catholic France under Louis XIV still supported the dethroned James II (England and Ireland) & VII (Scotland) and was at war with England, French wine and brandy were banned in England.
As an unintended consequence, both production and consumption of gin exploded in England and especially London during the 1st half of the 18th century, a period termed the Gin Craze. The gin produced then was more often than not of poor quality, and some were even favoured with turpentine rather than juniper. The detrimental effect the Gin Craze had on the society at large was observed and documented by the clergy, bureaucracy and aristocracy alike.
As the Hanoverians succeeded to the throne of the Kingdom of Great Britain (Kingdom of England – containing Wales within – and Kingdom of Scotland merged in 1707), George I and George II – both were born in Hanover and learnt English as a foreign language – would have been shocked by the full extent of the Gin Craze innocuously kick-
started by their predecessors. In the 2nd quarter of the 18th century, the British government passed no less than 5 Acts of Parliament to curb gin and related social problems. Switching between no tax and high tax (in which case gin simply went underground), the first 4 acts were largely ineffective.
Renowned for his works on socio-political subjects, painter and printmaker William Hogarth advocated for yet another Gin Act. His twin prints Beer Street (1751) and Gin Lane (1751) are amongst the most influential propagandas in British history, on a par with e.g. Lord Kitchener Wants You (1914). William Hogarth’s effort did help bring about the Gin Act 1751, which signalled the beginning of the end of the Gin Craze.
In the late 19th century, Victorian gin palaces – luxurious pub specialised in serving premium gins –
began to emerge in Britain. Elsewhere, imperial troops serving in tropical areas were issued with quinine to prevent malaria. Carbonated water was used to dissolve quinine, and gin was added to mask the bitter flavour, hence the accidental invention of gin and tonic.
As the name suggests, London dry gin is indeed very dry, containing less than 0.1g of sugar per litre, without colouring nor additives, except pure and natural botanicals. It is the quintessentially British style of gin, particularly versatile in mixing cocktails.
Haswell London Distilled Dry Gin
An English gin made in London with the finest botanicals from around Europe, Asia and Africa. Immaculately clean and entirely transparent, the nose is herbaceous and pristine, effusing bergamot peel, lime, angelica and dried herbs. With an effortlessly balanced mouthfeel and engaging acidity, the palate is invigorating and vibrant, oozing lemon pith, spearmint, pepper and iris. Medium-bodied at 47%, the citrus-driven entry persists through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a bittersweet finish.
Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Dry Gin
A German gin made in the Black Forest with precisely 47 kinds of botanicals. Spotlessly clean and thoroughly transparent, the nose is perfumed and spellbinding, exuding lime peel, dried juniper, peppermint and mountain herbs. With a poised mouthfeel and alluring acidity, the palate is herbal and medicinal, radiating juniper berries, fresh leaf, cardamom and celery seeds. Medium-bodied at 47%, the vegetal entry evolves into an intricate mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To be continued…
To discover the unique charm of fine gins, contact Ms Bolormaa Ganbold of PREM1ER Bar & Tasting Room; W: www.prem1er.com; E: bolor@prem1er.com; T: +853 6233 5262; A: 86, Rua Direita Carlos Eugénio, Old Taipa Village
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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