Covering just over 10,000 sqkm and with just over 1 million people, Asturias – officially the Principality of Asturias (Principado de Asturias) – is one of the smaller Autonomous Communities (Comunidades Autónomas; first-level administrative divisions) of Spain, as well as the only one carrying the title of Principality. A principality sensu stricto is a polity whose head of state is a prince. There is indeed the Prince / Princess of Asturias (Príncipe / Princesa de Asturias), a title created in 1388, but rather than the head of government, s/he is the heir(ess) apparent – i.e. crown prince / princess – to the throne of Spain, equivalent to the French Dauphin de France (created in 1350) and the English / British Prince of Wales (created in 1282).
Situated along the Atlantic coast in northern Spain, Asturias got its name from the Astures, an ancient Celtic people prior to the arrival of the Romans in the 1st century AD under Augustus Caesar. The Romans never managed to fully conquer this remarkably mountainous region, nor did the Moors in the 8th century, nor did Napoléon I in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. In certain ways, Asturias was never fully Romanised, nor Islamised, but proudly retained its Celtic spirit, although it is not part of the Celtic nations sextet.
Cider is arguably a more representative beverage of the Celtic identity than whisk(e)y. An alcoholic beverage made from fermenting apple juice, cider is technically a wine, a fruit wine; in German, cider is Apfelwein (literally: apple wine). Cider is the fundament of French calvados and pommeau, as well as American applejack. There are table grapes and wine grapes, and there are table apples and cider apples. Most ciders are made with a blend of cider apple varieties. Depending on the apple varieties, methods of pressing, fermentation and filtering, cider ranges from 1% to 12% ABV, dry to sweet, still to sparkling, cloudy to limpid.
Asturian cider was first mentioned by the ancient Greek geographer, philosopher and historian Strabo. With an annual per capita consumption of more than 55l, the Asturians are the biggest cider-drinkers in Europe, and account for more than 80% of Spanish cider production. Although perhaps less well-known than the Basque sagardotegi, the Asturians do have their version of cider bars, called chigres and sidrerías.
Established in 1890 in the coastal town of Villaviciosa, Valle, Ballina y Fernández, S.A. is the producer of the El Gaitero (literally: the bagpiper) brand of ciders. El Gaitero is akin to the Guinness of Spanish cider – production is big, but quality remains high.
From west to east Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country are collectively referred to as Green Spain (España Verde), famed for their well conserved natural environment, wild life and heavy vegetation. Asturias, in particular, is well-known for its Ramirense Romanesque art and architecture, named after King Ramiro I.
El Gaitero Sidra
A semiseca (semi-sweet) cider with the DO (Denominación de Origen) Sidra de Asturias status, made with a blend of indigenous apple varieties. Bright citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the dainty nose offers white mulberry, salted dry plum and cherry blossom. With bright acidity and foamy mousse, the vivacious palate delivers mangosteen, salted kumquat and lemon blossom. Off-sweet and medium-bodied at 4.1 percent, the sprightly entry continues through a structured mid-palate, leading to a balanced finish.
El Gaitero Sidra Extra
A semiseca (semi-sweet) cider with the DO (Denominación de Origen) Sidra de Asturias status, made with a blend of indigenous apple varieties. Saturated citrine with rich golden reflex, the aromatic nose presents chenpi, dried raspberry and daisy. With generous and frothy mousse, the fleshy palate supplies redcurrant, dried wampi and daffodil. Off-sweet and medium-bodied at 4.8 percent, the poised entry evolves into an expressive mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.
Jacky I. F. Cheong is a legal professional and columnist. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France and Germany,
he regularly comments on wine, fine arts, classical music and opera.
