The Idyllic Treasure

Created by viticulturalist Henri Bouschet in 1866, Alicante Bouschet is a crossing of Petit Bouschet – per se a crossing of Teinturier du Cher and Aramon – and Grenache. Easy-to-grow, early-ripening and high-yielding, Alicante Bouschet quickly became popular in France, Spain and Portugal after the phylloxera epidemic. This teinturier – meaning grapes with red flesh – variety has thick skin and juicy flesh, so much so that during the Prohibition era, it was grown in California and sold on the East Coast as table grapes.
Despite its supple texture and intense colour (15 times that of Aramon and twice the darkness of Grand Noir de la Calmette), Alicante Bouschet, especially in the second half of 20th century, was often made into wines lacking depth and strength. Yet, with rigorous yield control and site selection such as in Spain’s Almansa and Portugal’s Alentejo, it can produce excellent wine with grace and taste.
The idyllic Herdade do Mouchão is an Alicante Bouschet specialist. In early 19th century, Thomas Reynolds relocated to here from Porto, focusing on the cork business. His grandson, John Reynolds, later purchased a 900ha property – the estate was born. The first vines were planted in 1901, and a distillery was built in 1929. With its heritage as a traditional Portuguese estate, it still produces olive oil and honey in addition to wine.
Whereas modern techniques are used in the vineyards, the winery still employs traditional techniques foot-trodding grapes in large, open lagares. Now with 32ha of vineyard planted with Alicante Bouschet, Aragonés, Trincaderia, Moreto, Touriga Nacional and Syrah, this time-honoured family-run estate continues an embodiment of the charm of Alentejo.

Herdade do Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco 2013
A blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Perrum and Fernão Pires, cool-fermented in stainless steel tanks. Bright lemon-yellow with pale golden reflex, the exotic nose offers pomelo peel, grapefruit, guava, pineapple and jackfruit. Supported by lively acidity, the tropical palate delivers lime peel, lemon, passion fruit and green mango, enriched by fresh herbs. Medium-light bodied at 13.5%, the tangy entry carries onto a racy mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish.

Herdade do Mouchão Tinto 2008
The estate’s flagship wine since 1954, a legend unto itself. A blend of Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira, barrel-aged for 24 months and further bottle-aged for 24-36 months. Inky garnet with carmine-rosso corsa rim, the gorgeous nose radiates cassis, black cherry, clove, cocoa, black sesame and sandalwood, embellished with geranium. Underpinned by tantalising acidity and tasty tannins, the redolent palate exudes damson, prune, black olive, eucalyptus, coffea arabica, tobacco and wild mushroom. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the fragrant entry continues through an expressive mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

Herdade do Mouchão Vinho Licoroso 2006
A single-varietal Alicante Bouschet, effectively a Portuguese vin doux naturel: fermentation is halted by high quality aguardente, and the fortified wine is barrel-aged for at least 4 years. Rich garnet with brick-tawny rim, the aromatic nose oozes plum jam, raspberry confit, tawny port and malt sugar, embellished by cherry blossom. Buttressed by ample acidity and juicy tannins, the multifarious palate supplies prune, cherry confit, dried tomato, amontillado sherry and caramel, infused with rose tisane. Fully sweet and full-bodied at 21.5%, the fleshy entry evolves into a spicy mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

Mouchão Aguardente Bagaceira Velha 2006
A traditional Portuguese bagaceira (pomace brandy), matured in French oak barrels. Bright jonquil with luminous golden reflex, the scented nose presents white cherry, mirabelle, cardamom, thyme, crème Chantilly and brioche. Sustained by fresh acidity, the expressive palate provides bergamot, apricot, lemongrass, liquorice, white clover honey and peat. Medium-bodied at 48%, the active entry transforms into a buttery mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

To discover the gems of Alentejo, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.