The Catalonian Priory

Situated in southwestern Catalonia, Priorato (“Priorat” in Catalan) is, alongside Rioja, one of the only 2 DOCs (Denomenación de Origen Calificada) in Spain, occupying the pinnacle of Spanish wine legislation. Priorato not only rivals the quality and reputation of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, but it is also one of the very few world-class wines based on Grenache (“Garnacha” in Spanish), rivaling the mighty Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Priorato wine was first recorded in late 12th century, when the Carthusian Order (“Ordo Cartusiensis” in Latin) established the Monastery of Scala Dei in 1194 and planted vines there. The monastery’s ruins last to this day, and vines still hug the hillsides below it. The prior (head of a priory, next in rank below the abbot) of Scala Dei used to rule as a feudal lord over several villages in the surrounding area, hence the very religious name of the wine region – Priorato literally means “priory” in Spanish.

Due to the semi-arid climate in various parts of Spain, yields tend to be low (the Spanish national average is 25hl/ha). Yet, Priorato is astonishingly low-yielding even by Spanish standards, as the average is a jaw-dropping 5hl/ha, the main reasons being harsh climate, poor soil and old vines, all of which are conducive to wine quality. Considering that there are but 60-odd producers tending to merely 1,700ha of vines, the region’s tiny production is strikingly disproportionate to its global reputation.

Despite its relatively small area, Priorato is endowed with an interesting array of soil compositions, notably the llicorella, comprising reddish black slate, with 50cm of thick topsoil formed by decomposed slate and mica, which reflects sunlight and conserves heat. Such soil composition forces the roots of vines to reach deeper in search of water, nutrition and minerals, hence the distinctive minerality of fine Prioratos. Produced from old vines and undergoing significant oak maturation, Priorato wines are typically full-bodied and powerful, exuding ripe fruitiness and warm spices, with remarkable levels of concentration and minerality.

  Cellers Costers del Ros Aubagues 2009
A blend of Cariñera, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from old vines up to 60 years of age. Deep garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is elegant and fragrant, offering cassis and plum for fruits, enriched with cherry pit, black chocolate, new leather and crushed stones. Braced by animated acidity, ripe tannins and precise minerality, the palate is layered and redolent, delivering damson and prune for fruits, augmented by cocoa, rooibos tea, garrique and sandalwood. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the candid entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Cellers Costers del Ros l’Albada 2007
A blend of Cariñera, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from old vines up to 60 years of age. Rich garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the nose is discreet and scented, effusing blackberry and black cherry for fruits, polished by nutmeg, black chocolate, sous bois, violet and crushed stone. Underpinned by spirited acidity, suave tannins and articulate minerality, the palate is nuanced and vivacious, emanating cranberry and plum for fruits, complemented by cinnamon, coffea arabica, cigar, sandalwood and forest mushroom. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the enticing entry evolves into a dynamic mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

La Conreria d’Scala Dei la Conreria 2009
A blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cariñena, sourced from old vines up to 80 years of age. Bright garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is firm and fragrant, offering cassis and blackberry for fruits, augmented by nutmeg, mocha coffee, sandalwood and violet. Braced by bright acidity, ripe tannins and elegant minerality, the palate is dynamic and layered, providing black cherry and plum for fruits, intermingled with cinnamon, coffea arabica, forest mushroom and geranium. Medium-bodied at 14.5%, the fleshy entry persists through a spiced mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

La Conreria d’Scala Dei Iugiter 2007
A blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cariñera, sourced from old vines up to 80 years of age. Rich garnet with carmine-Tyrian purple rim, the nose is broody and complex, delivering bilberry and black cherry for fruits, complemented by liquorice, clove, incense and violet. Underpinned by lively acidity, tasty tannins and palpable minerality, the palate is concentrated and mature, supplying cassis and damson for fruits, intertwined with allspice, tobacco leaf, cigar box and cedarwood. Medium-full bodied at 15%, the scented entry evolves into a spicy mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. By Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages