The English Connection

Partly due to its geographical location, the inland Alentejo region is by no means as heavily influenced by the English as the Douro region. However, in view of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty of 1373 – the oldest alliance still in force today – and the Treaty of Windsor of 1386, various exchanges did take place between the two countries since the Middle Ages, be it commercial, cultural or political. For any aristocratic, let alone dynastic, families back then, marriage was as important as any of today’s multi-billion dollar mergers and acquisitions.
The family history of winemaker Joaquim Arnaud is a nutshell of Anglo-Portuguese relations. Centuries ago, his ancestor William Arnao arrived in Portugal from England with Princess Philippa of Lancaster, who married King João I and became Queen Consort of Portugal. Staying in Portugal in her service, William Arnao would later on fight for Duke of Coimbra Dom Pedro at the Battle of Alfarrobeira in 1449, where he was killed in action.
Since 1640, the Arnao family has been living in Pavia, Alentejo, where they planted vineyards and produced the wine titled Arundel, a reference to William Arnao, who descended from the Earl of Arundel, oldest extant earldom and the oldest extant peerage in the Peerage of England, created in 1138. To this day, Joaquim Arnaud stills makes three wines, in extremely small quantities, bearing the name Arundel – Arundel Young, Arundel and Arundel Great. The character and quality of his wines are as such that they are amongst the very best Alentejo has to offer.

   Joaquim Arnaud Espumante 2008
A single-varietal Chardonnay from the Lourinhã sub-region of Estremadura. Intense citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the fragrant nose offers lemon peel, lime, green apple, fresh herbs and fleur de sel. With piercing acidity yet fine mousse, the nuanced palate delivers lime peel, pomelo, starfruit, brioche and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 13%, the composed entry evolves into a buttery mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Joaquim Arnaud Arundel 2009
A blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouchet, Syrah and Tincadeira, macerated for 21 days post-fermentation and matured for 12 months in French oak. Rich garnet with luminous carmine-ruby rim, the nose is haunting and lush, effusing black cherry, dried damson, clove, cocoa, porcini mushroom, crushed rock and violet. With succulent acidity and delicious tannins, the palate is endearing and graceful, emanating prune, crème de cassis, nutmeg, mocha, tobacco, sandalwood and sakura. Medium-full bodied at 14.5%, the attractive entry carries onto a melodious mid-palate, leading to a harmonious finish.

Joaquim Arnaud Arundel Young 2012
A blend of Aragonez, Alicante Bouchet, Syrah and Tincadeira, macerated for 21 days post-fermentation and matured for 6 months in French oak. Dark garnet with bright cardinal-ruby rim, the scented nose presents cassis, damson, Christmas spice, cocoa and sandalwood. With generous acidity and ripe tannins, the aromatic palate supplies black cherry, prune, clove, coffea arabica and cigar box. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the energetic entry continues through a vibrant mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Joaquim Arnaud Moscatel de Setúbal 2011
A single-varietal Muscat fermented on lees and fortified by Portuguese wine brandy. Brilliant sinopia with glowing copper-tawny reflex, the nose is pungent and seductive, radiating orange peel, clementine, crystallised mandarin, sweet ginger and orange blossom. With vivacious acidity, the palate is baroque-like and scented, oozing white strawberry, white cherry, marzipan, osmanthus sweet and rose tisane. Fully sweet, viscously textured and medium-full bodied at 17%, the explosive entry persists through an operatic mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish. By Jacky I.F. Cheong

Available at Palatium Fine Wines; Contact: Mr Pedro Lobo; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: [email protected]; T: +852 2875 0782

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages