The Gemstone of Saint-Julien

Multiple parallels can be drawn between Burgundy’s Nuits-Saint-Georges and Bordeaux’s Saint-Julien, and not just for the “Saint” in their illustrious names. Both are sometimes unfairly overlooked due to their mighty northern neighbours in Vosne-Romanée and Pauillac, but despite the absence of grand cru vineyards and premier grand cru estates, connoisseurs are beyond all shadow of doubt that Nuits-Saint-Georges’s premier cru climats and Saint-Julien’s deuxième cru châteaux are of the very highest quality, or kings without crowns so to speak. Deeply coloured, richly textured and exquisitely balanced, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Saint-Julien are revered for their consistency through thick and thin. For the aforementioned reasons, savvy oenophiles would definitely not miss these shrewd buys.
Situated in the southwest of Saint-Julien, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of the most majestic estates of the entire Bordeaux region. This leading “Super Second” estate has been a prized property of the Borie family for three generations and counting. The name of the château reveals a particular attachment to the terroir. “Ducru” originates from a certain Monsieur Bertrand Ducru who acquired the estate in 1795, the year after the Thermidorian Reaction put an end to the Reign of Terror. “Beaucaillou”, meanwhile, literally means “beautiful (pebble) stones”, a reference to the large-stoned gravel – often up to 2.5 inches in diameter – in its vineyards. The stones are crucial to the quality of Ducru-Beaucaillou’s wines: apart from excellent drainage and heat retention, the more stones, the poorer the soil, and the better the wines.
Classified as a deuxième cru estate in 1855, the Borie family gradually took full control of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou during the mid-20th century. Its 50 hectares of vineyards are planted with approximately 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot vines averaging 35 to 40 years of age, at a remarkably high density of about 10,000 vines per hectare, which pushes the roots to drill deeper into the soil in search of nutrients, resulting in more flavourful and nuanced wines. Maturation in French oak barriques – with a majority of new oak – typically lasts 18 months.
Currently owned and managed by Bruno-Eugène Borie, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou produces two red wines: the namesake grand vin and the second vin La Croix de Beaucaillou. Jacky I.F. Cheong

  La Croix de Beaucaillou 2008
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. Inky garnet with carmine-purple rim, the fragrant nose presents blueberry and cassis for fruits, enriched with cinnamon, tobacco and incense. Braced by fruity acidity, supple tannins and clean minerality, the persuasive palate supplies black cherry and damson for fruits, complemented by dark chocolate, cedarwood and graphite. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the copious entry continues through a herbaceous mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2006
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Inky garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the scented nose furnishes blackberry and blueberry for fruits, infused with coffea arabica, bouquet garni and toasted oak. Buttressed by generous acidity, meaty tannins and potent minerality, the impressive palate effuses raspberry and plum for fruits, intertwined with nutmeg, cigar and wild mushroom. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the intense entry persists through a spicy mid-palate, leading to an imposing finish.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2000
A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Dark garnet with carmine-carnelian rim, the graceful nose provides cranberry and redcurrant for fruits, imbued with Qimen red tea, sous bois and geranium. Anchored by lively acidity, sweet tannins and accurate minerality, the endearing palate emanates cassis and black cherry for fruits, interwoven with spice box, wild mushroom and crushed rock. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the elegant entry evolves into an expressive mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

To discover ex-château gems of impeccable provenance, contact Mr Tommy Lau of Omtis Fine Wines; W: www.omtisfinewines.com; E: tommy@omtis.com; T: +852 2333 0241

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages