The Genesis of Gin

Due to gin’s classic combination with tonic and the prominent position it occupies in the realm of cocktail, it is tempting to assume that gin is a British invention from the Georgian or Imperial period. Gin as we know it does come from Britain, but its roots are firmly in the Low Countries, in particular the Netherlands and Belgium, as well as neighbouring regions in northern France and northwestern Germany.
The English word gin derives from geneva (not to be confused with the Swiss city), the Anglicised word for Dutch/Flemish jenever or French genièvre, all referring without exception to the one common ingredient used – juniper. Jenever in the Dutch/Flemish tradition was produced by distilling malt wine (strong beer) to relatively low strength, usually around 50% ABV. Due to rudimentary distillation technology back then, the distillate used to be rather coarse and impure. Herbs – especially juniper – were added to make the product more palatable.
In terms of production history, Dutch jenever can be traced back to the 16th century or earlier, whereas Flemish jenever may have existed since the 13th century. During the Eighty Years’ War from 1566 to 1648, English soldiers fighting in the Low Countries against Habsburg Spain first brought jenever back to England.
Comprising various styles, Dutch/Flemish jenever is a little universe unto itself. The traditional oude (literally: old) style of jenever is produced by distilling malt wine (brewed with malts of various grains) with or without ageing in oak, not unlike whisky. The modern jonge (literally: young) style of jenever appeared in the late 19th / early 20th century, when the popular demand was for cheaper liquors in larger quantities. Using spirits distilled from non-grain ingredients and with little or no ageing, jonge jenever is somehow akin to vodka. The oude/jonge divide of Dutch/Flemish jenever concerns production method, rather than maturation.
While graanjenever (literally: grain jenever) means that only grain and malt are used, korenwijn (literally: grain wine) is produced largely according to the old style dating back to the 18th century and often matured in oak barrels for a couple of years. Dutch/Flemish jenever may use a variety of grains, e.g. barley, corn, rye, spelt and wheat. As a rule of thumb, the more basic jenever can be served at room temperature, chilled, frozen or on the rocks; to savour the finer jenever, it ought to be served at straight at room temperature.

Goblet Jonge Graanjenever
Transparent clear with beige hues, the fragrant nose offers cloudberry, peach pit and sage. With a dense mouthfeel, the fleshy palate delivers physalis, apricot pit and sweet ginger. Medium-full bodied at 35%, the supple entry carries onto a sweetish mid-palate, leading to a malty finish.

Olifant Oude Graanjenever
Transparent clear with cream hues, the aromatic nose presents mirabelle, peach and crystal sugar. With a suave mouthfeel, the plump palate supplies Williams pear, nectarine and maltose. Medium-full bodied at 35%, the corny entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a long finish.

Wenneker Zeer Oude Korenwijn
Transparent clear with vanilla hues, the complex nose effuses nectarine, corn and linden. With a viscous mouthfeel, the lush palate furnishes pear, oatmeal and maltose. Full-bided at 38%, the honeyed entry passes through a rounded mid-palate, leading to a smooth finish.

Wenneker Oude Genever
Transparent clear with yellowish hues, the attractive nose emanates rock sugar, wet stone and dandelion. With an unctuous mouthfeel, the plush palate provides corn, dried herbs and candy floss. Full-bodied at 36%, the malty entry persists through a chunky mid-palate, leading to an elongated finish.

To discover the unique charm of fine gins, contact Ms Bolormaa Ganbold of PREM1ER Bar & Tasting Room; W: www.prem1er.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6233 5262; A: 86, Rua Direita Carlos Eugénio, Old Taipa Village

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages