The Burgundian Newcomer

With 100+ appellations, 600+ premier cru and 30+ grand cru climats, Burgundy is quite possibly the most intellectually demanding region to understand. The pleasure of studying its wine is akin to walking a labyrinth, with myriads of intricate details, as well as curious twists and turns.
Comprising 6 communes (the eponymous Couches, Dracy-les-Couches, Saint-Jean-de-Trezy, Saint-Maurice-les-Couches, Saint-Pierre-de-Varennes and Saint-Sernin-du-Plain), Côtes-du-Couchois (literally: hills of Couches) is one of the newly minted appellations of Burgundy, having received its AOC status in 2000, after decades of campaigning. This appellation, not much known outside France, is a well-hidden gem.
Neighbouring Maranges, Mercurey and Santenay, all situated to its east, Côtes-du-Couchois shares much similarity in terms of terroir with the said, more famous appellations. For starters, its soil is dominated by clay, limestone and marl. Vineyards are generally south-facing, at altitudes between 200m and 300m above sea level. Last but not least, Côtes-du-Couchois has a comparatively strict yield control regime. These factors are essential to the quality of Côtes-du-Couchois wines.
Although a newcomer in its attainment of the AOC status, the Côtes-du-Couchois area has been producing wine since time immemorial, and it boasted some 650ha under vine before the phylloxera plague. Reportedly, the appellation covers a total of 250ha, but only 10% is under vine at the moment, and annual production is less than 200,000 bottles. Only Pinot Noir may be labelled as Bourgogne-Côtes-du-Couchois AOC, whereas Chardonnay is labelled as Bourgogne AOC. Côtes-du-Couchois wines generally reach maturity after 2 to 3 years of cellaring, but finer samples can last up to 10 years.
At a recent private tasting, Macau Daily Times became the first publication in the region to sample through a range of Bourgogne Côtes-du-Couchois wines.

Domaine Royet Crémant de Bourgogne Brut NV
Situated in the heart of Côtes-du-Couchois, Domaine Royet’s vines are grown in the vicinity of the 11th century Château de Couches and beyond. Bright lemon-yellow with pale golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers pomelo, green apple, Tianjin pear and lees. Supported by lively acidity and medium-fine mousse, the refreshing palate delivers lime peel, lemon, starfruit and salted butter. Medium-bodied at 11.5%, the joyous entry continues through a fleshy mdi-palate, leading to a clean finish.

Blason de Vair Bourgogne Cuvée Philippe et Valérie 2013
Berries were sourced from a south-facing plot with calcareous marble soil, manually harvested, fermented by indigenous yeast, and matured in French oak barriques (25% new). Light citrine with pastel golden reflex, the stylish nose effuses lime peel, apricot, apple blossom, oyster shell and white smoke. Braced by crispy acidity and clear minerality, the pure palate provides nectarine, peach pit, green tea, green almond and fleur de sel. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the composed entry carries onto an energetic mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Domaine du Beauregard Bourgogne Côtes-du-Couchois 2011
Now in its 5th generation, Domaine du Beauregard is a staunch believer of sustainable viticulture. Bright ruby with shimmering cardinal-crimson rim, the delicate nose emanates raspberry, redcurrant and blueberry. Maintained by vivacious acidity and silky tannins, the fruit-driven palate supplies cranberry, lingonberry and red cherry. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the poised entry transforms into a sprightly mid-palate, leading to a fresh finish.

Blason de Vair Bourgogne Côtes-du-Couchois Cuvée Saint-Bernard 2012
Berries were sourced from a south-facing plot with blue marble soil, de-stemmed, fermented by indigenous yeast, and matured in French oak barrels. Deep ruby with luminous cardinal-crimson rim, the scented nose presents blackberry, black cherry, nutmeg and sandalwood. Buttressed by rich acidity and velvety tannins, the aromatic palate furnishes cassis, bilberry, liquorice and tobacco. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the juicy entry evolves into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover Côtes-du-Couchois and its fine produce, visit www.cotesducouchois.com. E: contact@cotesducouchois.com

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages