The Latino-Slavic Crossroad II

(Continued from “The Latino-Slavic Crossroad” on 20 March 2015)

By 1914, Moldavia had become the winery, indeed the largest wine production area, of the Russian Empire. Just as Moldavian viticulture seemed to have entered its second golden age, it was badly hit by WWI, the Russian Civil War and WWII in the 31 years to follow. It was not until the 1950s, during the tenure of Nikita Khrushchev, that massive re-planting programmes were carried out in the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (a.k.a. Moldavian SSR). In its heyday of, the Moldavian SSR accounted for 50% of all wines produced in Union of the Soviet Socialist Republics (a.k.a. USSR or Soviet Union).
In the late 1980s, viticulture in the Moldavian SSR suffered the same fate as in Bulgaria (then People’s Republic of Bulgaria), as Mikhail Gorbachev aggressively curbed vines to combat rising alcoholism. Subsequent to its independence in 1991, Moldova became the first ex-Soviet state to establish a reputation for wine. Russian influence, however, seems to have survived the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Twice in the last decade, Russia banned Moldovan wines due to political disputes: first in 2006 over the breakaway state of Transnistria, then in 2013 as a protest to Moldova’s plan to sign a draft association treaty with the European Union.
Moldova’s political history may be severe, but its viticulture environment is much more benign. Located between the 46th and 48th parallels north, Moldova enjoys a temperate climate and plenty of sunshine hours, crisscrossed by streams flowing into Prut and Dniester. 5% of Moldova’s total area is under vine, producing 25% of the country’s export earnings. Moldova’s wine industry is remarkably export-oriented, with more than 70% of vineyards planted with international varieties, while retaining some local and Caucasian varieties such as Fetească Albă, Fetească Neagră, Fetească Regală and Furmint. It is currently the 20th largest wine-producing country in the world, and home to the world’s largest underground cellar – stretching for 250km with more than 2 million bottles.
Moldova comprises 4 wine regions: Balti (N), Codru (centre), Stefan Voda (SE) and Valul lui Traian (SW), literally Trajan’s Wall, referring to the line of fortifications built under Emperor Trajan’s reign in the region. Fautor is a leading producer from the said region, whose wines offer excellent value for money and convey a real sense of history.

Fautor Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Rich garnet with bright cardinal-ruby rim, the nose is attractive and floral, offering rose hip, cranberry, red cherry, nutmeg and geranium. Sustained by lively acidity and supple tannins, the palate is energetic and fruit-driven, delivering raspberry, redcurrant, plum, cinnamon and rose tisane. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the expressive entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a vivid finish.

Fautor Merlot 2009
Rich garnet with bright cardinal-carmine rim, the nose is alluring and fragrant, providing bilberry, black cherry, prune and mocha. Maintained by active acidity and juicy tannins, the palate is jubilant and redolent, supplying cassis, mulberry, damson and cigar box. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the fleshy entry carries onto a rounded mid-palate, leading to a pleasant finish.

Fautor Illustro Rezerva 2009
A blend of Cabernet and Merlot, matured for 18 months in French oak barrique and 12 months in bottle. Luminous with radiant carmine-ruby rim, the nose is aromatic and brooding, effusing plum, fig, blackcurrant leaf, cocoa, spice box and cigar. Buttressed by abundant acidity and silky tannins, the palate is multifarious and profound, emanating cassis, damson, allspice, coffea arabica, pot pourri and charcoal. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the succulent entry persists through an exuberant mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish. If tasted blind, one could mistake this for a classy Pauillac – at a fraction of its price tag. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the hidden treasure of Moldovan wine, contact Mr Quinton Lee of Lok Va (Nova) Trading Company Ltd; E: quinton.lee@fuvai.com; T: +853 2852 2483

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany,
he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages