The Mediterranean Heart II

(Continued from “The Mediterranean Heart” on 15 May 2015)

There are but a handful of wine regions that are simultaneously UNESCO World Heritage Sites, eg. Austria’s Wachau, Germany’s Rhine Gorge, Hungary’s Tokaj-Hegyalja and Portugal’s Alto Douro, not to forget France’s climats of Burgundy and Champagne, which made headlines recently. There is, however, perhaps only one wine region in the world that is simultaneously UNESCO World Heritage Site and a volcano – Mount Etna of Sicily, truly one of its kind.
Situated in northeastern Sicily, Mount Etna is one of the biggest and most active volcanos not just in Italy but the entire world. Since time immemorial, every civilization setting foot on Mount Etna was shocked and awed by the volcano – Mount Etna was known as “furnace” in Phoenician, “burning” in Greek and “mountain of fire” in Arabic. If the fiery reputation of Sicilian wine and Sicily in general has partly to do with the brooding Nero d’Avola, the femme fatale of a red variety, it could be argued that Mount Etna is the more important reason.
If extremities tend to give birth to the most characterful of wines, Mount Etna is surely a potent example. The majority of vineyards in the Mount Etna region – it became Sicily’s first DOC in 1968, preceding even the time-honoured Marsala – are located towards the east of the volcano. Lying on the 37th parallel north, this is among the southernmost wine regions of Europe.
The hot climate is, however, moderated by the Mediterranean Sea and more importantly altitude. Ranging from 450m to 1,100m above sea level, Sicily has an extensive range of mesoclimates at different altitudes. Vineyards here are amongst the highest in Italy, rivalled only by those in the alpine region of Südtirol and, as in Argentina and Chile, vintners are eager to further push boundaries upward. Often dark and thick, Mount Etna’s volcanic soil is particularly fertile and mineral rich, imparting much minerality and structure into wines, usually made of indigenous varieties.

   Vivera Altrove 2013
A blend of 46% Chardonnay, 30% Catarratto and 24% Insolia from Sicilia Bianco DOP. Luminous citrine with light golden reflex, the pristine nose offers grapefruit peel, bergamot, starfruit and rock salt. Underpinned by vivacious acidity, the expressive palate delivers lemon peel, pomelo, pineapple and oyster shell. Medium-bodied at 13%, the poised entry carries on a spicy mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish.

Vivera Salisire 2011
A single-varietal Carricante from Etna Bianco DOC. Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the fiery nose dispenses lemon peel, green apple, crushed rock and white smoke. Supported by heightened acidity, the vibrant palate furnishes lime, calamansi, apricot pit and seashell. Medium-bodied at 13.5%, the lively entry continues through an intense mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish.

Vivera Rosato di Martinella 2014
A single-varietal Nerello Mascalese from Etna Rosato DOP. Translucent salmon pink with shimmering amaranth reflex, the evocative nose effuses red apple, cranberry, courgette and geranium. Supported by invigorating acidity and traces of tannins, the engaging palate emanates strawberry, white cherry, fresh herbs and rose petal. Medium-light bodied at 13.5%, the stimulating entry evolves into a floral mid-palate, leading to a charming finish.

Vivera Martinella Rosso 2010
A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from Etna Rosso DOP. Rich garnet with bright cardinal-carmine rim, the potent nose presents bilberry, cranberry, rooibos tea, leather, tar and violet. Buttressed by racy acidity, fine-grained tannins and clear minerality, the concentrated palate supplies redcurrant, wild cherry, black tea, wild mushroom, graphite and smoke. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the tangy entry persists through an animated mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

Available at Cottage Vineyards; Contact: Ms Ada Leung; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages