Arguably the most glamorous of Italy’s 20 administrative regions, Veneto is surely one of the most important in terms of fine wines. Whilst Piemonte is rightly proud of its Moscato, Barolo and Barbaresco, and Toscana revered for its Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti and Vin Santo, Veneto is firing on all cylinders – its formidable portfolio comprises Prosecco, Soave, Valpolicella, Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto.
Situated in the northwestern tip of Italy, Veneto is at the crossroad of Germanic, Latin and Slavic cultures, sandwiched between the Alps and the Mediterranean. On the top of its diversity, be it cultural or oenological, Veneto is known for its devilish ingenuity – who would thought that the most powerful Italian red wine would hail from the north? Indeed, the region has been renowned for its wines since the Roman Republic era, during which both Gaius Plinius Secundus (Pliny the Elder) and Publius Vergilius Maro (Virgil) referred to Recitum – from which modern Recioto got its name – produced therein.
Subsequent to the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Veneto continued to thrive under the Eastern Roman Empire, i.e. the Byzantine Empire. Directly breaking away therefrom in 697, the Most Serene Republic of Venice (“serene” refers to sovereignty) is arguably the only state in Europe which has never been ruled by what the ancient Romans considered barbarians.
With its strategic location in the trade routes, the Republic of Venice became immensely wealthy during the Middle Ages and early modern period thanks to its quasi-monopoly in silk and spice trading. Of the 5 maritime republics (the other 4 being Amalfi, Genoa, Pisa and Ragusa), the Most Serene Republic of Venice was generally the most powerful, and it took someone as iconic as Napoleon I to put an end to this regional power. Yet Veneto’s legacy remained, evidenced by its many UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as the gallant baroque music and opera composed by one of its most famous sons, Il Prete Rosso (“the Red Priest”) Antonio Lucio Vivaldi.
Santa Sofia has been producing some of the finest wines in Veneto since 1811. It is renowned not only for its Palladian palace, very rare as it is, but also for its classic (re-)interpretation of Amarone. If Veneto has never been barbarised, neither has Santa Sofia ever been Americanised. Bravo, maestro!
Santa Sofia Soave Classico Montefoscarino 2013
A blend of 80% Garganega and the remaining 20% made up of Chardonnay, Trebbiano di Soave and Pinot Bianco. Luminous citrine with pastel golden reflex, the refined nose offers bergamot, Japanese pear, fresh herbs, white clover honey and seashell. Supported by crispy acidity and pulsating minerality, the poised palate delivers lemon peel, pomelo, honeydew melon, bouquet garni and rock salt. Medium-light bodied at 12%, the pristine entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a composed finish.
Santa Sofia Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2011
A blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. Rich garnet with bright cardinal-carmine rim, the perfumed nose effuses bilberry, damson, spice box, coffee and toasted oak. Braced by animated acidity and delicious tannins, the sensual palate emanates dried cherry, prune, allspice, gunpowder tea and rosewood. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the bold entry carries onto a vibrant mid-palate, leading to an alluring finish.
Santa Sofia Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2008
A blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. Dark garnet with deep cardinal-carnelian rim, the haunting nose radiates cranberry, red cherry, mint, pot pourri, tobacco, truffle and geranium. Anchored by spirited acidity and velvety tannins, the spellbinding palate oozes raspberry, redcurrant, spice box, cocoa, wild mushroom, leather and lavender. Full-bodied at 15%, the endearing entry persists through an exuberant mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.
Santa Sofia Recioto di Soave 2008
A blend of 80% Garganega and the remaining 20% made up of Chardonnay, Trebbiano di Soave and Pinot Bianco. Rich golden with light amber reflex, the charming nose presents apricot, loquat, sweet ginger, vanilla and almond. Buttress by generous acidity, the attractive palate supplies peach, nectarine, crystallised mandarin, assorted nuts and manuka honey. Medium-sweet and full-bodied at 13%, the intense entry transforms into a mellow mid-palate, leading to a hedonist finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
To discover the magic of Santa Sofia and the quintessence of Veneto, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: adaleung@cottagevineyards.com; T: +853 6283 3238
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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