The Sindhu Revival II

(Continued from “The Sindhu Revival” on 24 June 2015)

Lying between 6th parallel north (on a par with Central Africa) and 37th parallel north (on a par with Sicily), mainland India has a particularly tropical climate marked by intense heat, high humidity (the Indian subcontinent is sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean) and the mighty monsoon season, with incessant rain for months. In oenological terms, this could result in sunburn, fungal diseases and over-ripeness. The fertility of India is as such that it gave birth to one of the four ancient civilisations, as well as up to two crops per year.
Indian vintners have to employ an arsenal of measures to ensure the quality of grapes. To begin with, irrigation is often necessary, and so is frequent pruning. Vines are often trained up on bamboos and wires in a pergola to increase aeration and canopy cover against the unforgiving sun; higher up off the ground, grapes are also less likely to catch fungal disease.
Where latitude does not provide favourable conditions, altitude can be a mitigating factor. For cooler climate and better protection against wind, vineyards are often planted high on the hillside in the states of Karnataka and Maharashtra, ranging from 200m to 1,000m above sea level. Located towards the southwest of the country, Karnataka and Maharashtra, along with the likes of Andhra Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Punjab, Jammu and Kashmir, are the main wine-producing states of India.
Unsurprisingly, as many other up and coming wine-producing countries, India grows a wide array of French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Clairette, Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Ugni Blanc, producing still, sparkling, dry and sweet wines alike. What is surprising, however, is that 90% of all grapes produced are sold and consumed as table grapes; merely 10% are used to made wine. At present, India’s annual per capita consumption of wine is merely 9ml. With a burgeoning middle class and an increasingly Westernised younger generation, there is much market potential to be explored. Jacky I.F. Cheong

  Nira Valley Harmony Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Light citrine with pastel chartreuse reflex, the nose is clean and refreshing, offering pomelo peel and guava for fruits, infused with mint and cut grass. Buttressed by vibrant acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is pure and vegetal, delivering pomelo and bell pepper for fruits, supplemented by nettle and crushed seashell. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the tropical entry continues through an exotic mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.

Nira Valley Harmony Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Rich garnet with carnelian-Venetian red rim, the nose is complex and fruity, effusing bilberry and damson for fruits, enriched with tomato leaf, spice box and tobacco. Braced by joyous acidity and generous tannins, the palate is fleshy and herbaceous, providing cassis and prune for fruits, imbued with blackcurrant leaf, cigar box and graphite. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the tangy entry persists through an expressive mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.

Nira Valley Harmony Reserve Shiraz 2009
Grown in Maharashtra, the organic grapes were manually harvested. Bright garnet with rosso corsa-scarlet rim, the nose is redolent and scented, emanating plum and dried cranberry for fruits, augmented by bay leaf, potpourri and smoked bacon. Supported by vivacious acidity and copious tannins, the palate is energetic and fragrant, supplying strawberry and dried cherry for fruits, complemented by rooibos tea, garrique and game. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the herbal entry transforms into a smoky mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

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Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music,
and politics in several languages