At just over 1 million km2, Argentina is as big as France and Spain combined, while its population is roughly equivalent to the latter. To its west across the Andes, Chile may have been more successful in wine export, but Argentina produces 5 times as much wine. Currently ranked 5th in wine production worldwide, Argentina is by far the largest non-European wine-producing country.
Argentina’s viticultural history is the direct consequence of the Age of Discovery, Columbian Exchange and Spanish colonisation. Cuttings of vines, reportedly from the Central Valley of Chile, were brought to Argentina by colonisers and missionaries in the mid-16th century, initially planted for the purpose of making sacramental wine. In the 19th century, Argentina saw a huge influx of immigrants from Italy and Spain, later on France, who brought with them winemaking experience and knowledge. In the 1st quarter of the 20th century, Argentina was amongst the top 10 wealthiest countries in the world.
Thanks to its fertile land, favourable climate and not least abundant sunshine, Argentina used to focus more on quantity than quality in viticulture, with the overwhelming majority of its wine being consumed domestically. Starting from the 1980s, however, the balance of Argentine viticulture began to tilt towards quality and, despite the El Niño and the economic crisis at the turn of the century, Argentina is arguably the most improved wine-producing country in the world.
Mendoza is to Argentina what Napa Valley and Stellenbosch are to the USA and South Africa respectively. Located east of the Andes, Mendoza is curiously closer to the Chilean capital of Santiago than to the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires. Mendoza is responsible for 70% of all wines produced in Argentina, but Cafayate is beginning to impress by quality. Located in the northern province of Salta, Cafayate is home to some of the most elevated vineyards in the world, some at as high as 3,000m asl. Cool regions with high altitude, often up to 1,600m asl, seem to be the development trend in Argentina, thanks to the substantial diurnal temperature variation therein, allowing grapes to ripen fully and amass flavors.
Somewhat different from other New World wine-producing countries, Argentina has a list of idiosyncratic varieties such its flagship Malbec and Torrontés, as well as – if slightly rustic – Bonarda, Cereza, Criolla Grande and Criolla Chica. Argentine wine legislation stipulates that the stated variety must constitute at least 80% in any wine.
The Argentine capital Buenos Aires has for long been referred to as Little Paris. The country may have been known for its tango, gauchos and Diego Maradona, but elegance and grace now seem to occupy the central position, as embodied not just in its wines, but also Pope Francis, Franco Fagioli – arguably the finest countertenor of our time – and, of course, Lionel Messi.
Tomás Achával Nómade Torrontés 2012
Sourced from old vines planted at 1,650m asl in the Calchaqui Valley of Cafayate. Translucent citrine with pastel golden reflex, the nose is candid and fragrant, effusing grapefruit peel, pomelo and white peach for fruits, infused with fresh herbs and jasmine. Braced by abundant acidity and slight minerality, the palate is bold and vibrant, emanating lemon peel, Chinese pear and Mirabelle for fruits, imbued with spearmint and orange blossom. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the tangy entry continues a herbal mid-palate, leading to a potent finish.
Tomás Achával Nómade Torrontés 2010
Sourced from old vines planted at 1,650m asl in the Calchaqui Valley of Cafayate. Luminous citrine with light golden reflex, the nose is aromatic and complex, exuding Japanese pear and starfruit for fruits, adorned with rue, paperwhite and seashell. Supported by generous acidity and slight minerality, the palate is corpulent and energetic, radiating grapefruit peel and pomelo for fruits, augmented by Herbes de Provence, ginger lily and rock salt. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the herbaceous entry continues a spicy mid-palate, leading to a precise finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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