The Czech Enigma II

(Continued from “The Czech Enigma” on 19 December 2014)

For more than a millennium, the Czech lands were part of the mainly German-speaking Holy Roman Empire, Austrian Empire and Austro-Hungarian Empire. If there was one country that influenced the modern Czech Republic the most, it would undoubtedly be Austria. Politically astute as the Habsburgs were, the modern Czech regions of Bohemia, Moravia and Czech Silesia were constituents of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and existed in their own rights as the Kingdom of Bohemia, Margraviate of Moravia and Duchy of Upper and Lower Silesia.
It should not be surprising, therefore, that various Austrian grapes are present, indeed widely planted, in the Czech Republic. Whereas the overwhelming majority of vineyards in the Czech Republic are located in the southeastern region of Moravia, which is why Czech wine is often referred to simply as Moravian wine, little known is the fact that immediately across the border lies Weinviertel, the single largest wine region of Austria, located in the northeast of the country.
Located along the 49th parallel north, Moravia is at the same altitude as most of Germany’s wine regions as well as Alsace. Owing to its continental climate, diurnal variation and fertile soil, the challenge facing Czech wine is not so much under-ripeness but excessive yield. Where vineyards are carefully tended to and yields are strictly controlled, Moravia is entirely capable of producing fine wines at the international level.
Established in 1430, Château Valtice is one of the largest producers in the Czech Republic, with some 420ha under vine. Before and after joining the European Union in 2004, a large amount of capital has been injected to modernise the Czech wine industry, and quality has been steadily on the rise.

  Château Valtice Frankovka Jakostní 2012
Equivalent to Qualitätswein. Frankovka is the Czech name of the rich and spicy Blaufränkisch. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the smoky nose offers blueberry, coffee and tobacco. Braced by adequate acidity and dry tannins, the juicy palate delivers red cherry, red tea and sous bois. Fully dry and medium-light bodied at 11.5%, the fruit-driven continues through a composed mid-palate, leading to grippy finish.
Château Valtice Svatovavřinecké Jakostní 2012
Equivalent to Qualitätswein. Svatovavřinecké is the Czech name of the elegant and suave Sankt Laurent. Rich garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the fragrant nose reveals blackberry, cinnamon and geranium. Maintained by sufficient acidity and dry tannins, the reserved palate presents red cherry, nutmeg and sous bois. Off-dry and medium-light bodied at 11.5%, the light entry carries onto a delicate mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

Château Valtice Zweigeltrebe Výběr z Hroznů 2011
Equivalent to Auslese. Zweigeltrebe is the Czech name of the bright and complex Zweigelt, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent. Deep garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the heady nose provides bilberry, blackberry and fresh earth. Sustained by lively acidity and dry tannins, the soft palate supplies blueberry, red cherry and sous bois. Fully dry and medium-lighted bodied at 11.5%, the tangy entry persists through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a tannic finish.

To be continued…

To discover Czech wines, contact Mr Chris Chan of Tomizawa Co Ltd; E: chris@tomizawa.com.mo; T: +853 6661 6195

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages