The Czech Enigma

If Belgium is the amalgamation of Germanic and Latin cultures, Czech Republic would be one of Germanic and Slavic cultures. Situated in the heart of Europe, Czech Republic actually shares a lengthier border with Germany than Poland, and with Austria than Slovakia.
For more than a millennium, the Czech lands were an integral part of the mainly German-speaking Holy Roman Empire and the Austrian Empire, hence its perceptible Habsburg influence. Prior to WWI, the historic Sudetenland was the industrial centre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. To this day, Czech Republic remains the most advanced country from the former Eastern Bloc. Its GDP per capita, meanwhile, has already surpassed Portugal and Greece, and is approaching Italy and Spain.
Czech Republic’s half-Germanic heritage is more than evident in its viticulture. For starters, the majority of grape varieties grown therein originate from either Austria or Germany, now joined by the usual list of international varieties from France. Yet more significantly, the Czech wine classification system is distinctly Germanic, with a clear emphasis on ripeness and must weight. Austrian and German designations exist almost in their entirety, just that names are in Czech, eg Qualitätswein (Jakostní), Kabinett (Kabinet), Spätlese (Pozdní Sběr), Auslese (Výběr z Hroznů), Beerenauslese (Výběr z Bobulí), Trockenbeerenauslese (Výběr z Cibéb), Strohwein (Slámové Víno) and Eiswein (Ledové Vino). In addition, the Czecho-Slovak Normalised Must-Weight Scale is also largely based on the German Oechsle scale.
Established in 1430, Château Valtice is one of the largest producers in Czech Republic, with some 420ha under vine. Before and after joining the European Union in 2004, large amount of capital has been injected to modernise the Czech wine industry, and quality has been steadily on the rise.

Château Valtice Aurelius Výběr z Hroznů 2011
Equivalent to Auslese Halbtrocken. Aurelius is a Czech white variety by crossing Neuburger – per se a crossing of Roter Veltliner and Silvaner – with Riesling. Light citrine with bright lemon-lime reflex, the exotic nose effuses lime peel, guava and cut grass. Supported by adequate acidity, the refreshing palate provides lemon, apricot and fresh herbs. Off-dry and medium-bodied at 12.5%, the citrusy entry carries onto a spicy mid-palate, leading to a long finish.

Château Valtice Rulandské Šedé Výběr z Hroznů 2011
Equivalent to Auslese Halbtrocken. Rulandské Šedé is Pinot Gris in Czech. Bright amber with light golden reflex, the fragrant nose emanates clementine, nectarine and apple flower. Braced by sufficient acidity, the tangy palate supplies lemon peel, apple and white pepper. Off-dry and medium-bodied at 12.5%, the lemony entry continues through a lively mid-palate, leading to a peppery finish.

Château Valtice Dornfelder Pozdní Sběr 2012
Equivalent to Spätlese Halbtrocken. Dornfelder has no aliases apart from the scientific-sounding Weinsberg S 341 or We S 341. Reddish black with burgundy-purple rim, the aromatic nose dispenses black cherry, black chocolate and tobacco. Maintained by vivacious acidity and dry tannins, the smoky palate delivers cassis, clove and sous bois. Off-dry and medium-bodied at 11%, the juicy entry carries onto a spicy mid-palate, leading to a tannic finish.

Château Valtice Modrý Portugal Pozdní Sběr 2011
Equivalent to Spätlese Trocken. Modrý Portugal is Blauer Portugieser in Czech. Bright garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the floral nose furnishes raspberry, cinnamon and violet. Sustained by vibrant acidity and ample tannins, the fragrant palate offers cranberry, nutmeg and sous bois. Fully dry and medium-bodied at 11.5%, the berry-dominated entry continues through a dainty mid-palate, leading to a long finish. by Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

To discover Czech wines, contact Mr Chris Chan of Tomizawa Co Ltd; E: chris@tomizawa.com.mo; T: +853 6661 6195

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.