The Franco-German Crossroads

Alsace (or Elsass in German) is perhaps the focal point of Franco-German relations, itself having changed hands for no less than 6 times in history, a unique record unmatched by any other region in the world. The name Alsace / Elsass derives either from the Old High German Alisaz or Elisaz (literally: foreign domain), or from Ellsass (literally: seated on the Ill), both referring to the region’s location along the westernmost tributary of the Rhine.
Neighbouring Germany and Switzerland, Alsace might be a medium-sized région of France, of which there are 27, but its GDP per capita is second to only Île-de-France. The distinctive Alsatian dialect is still widely spoken in the region which has perhaps the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. Essentially the child of Germany and France, Alsace is renowned for its architecture, gastronomy and wine.
Combining the French AOC and grand cru systems with elements of the predominantly Germanic single-varietal practice, Alsace has 51 grand cru vineyards, even more than mighty Burgundy. Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains are the 4 noble varieties, along with the ever-improving Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner et al.
Enjoying a warm and dry climate, Alsace does not attach as much importance on must weight or residual sugar level as its German cousins in its wine classification system. In fact, the Alsatian tradition tends to convert all sugar into alcohol, interpreting and expressing the characteristics of grape varieties in a usually dry (except, of course, the Vendange Tardive, Sélection de Grains Nobles and Quintessence de Grains Nobles), full-bodied and powerful way.
Despite its exemplary quality, age-worthiness, character and food-friendliness, Alsatian wine remains very reasonably priced, a fact not overlooked by oenophiles and gourmands, but who knows for how much longer? Jacky I.F. Cheong

   Domaine Bechtold Sussenberg Riesling 2010
Bright citrine with light golden reflex, the fragrant nose offers bergamot, grapefruit and Japanese pear, decorated by citrus blossom. Underpinned by vibrant acidity and articulate minerality, the vivacious palate delivers lemon peel, apricot and ume, infused with fine herbs. Medium-light bodied at 12.5%, the invigorating entry continues through a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a stylish finish.

Domaine Bechtold Obere Hund Gewurztraminer 2011
Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the candid nose exudes grapefruit, white cherry and lychee, adorned with rose petal. Braced by plentiful acidity and clear minerality, the spicy palate effuses green apple, apricot and ume, augmented by white pepper. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the expressive entry carries onto a stimulating mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Domaine Bechtold Grand Cru Engelberg Pinot Gris 2012
Pinkish citrine with intense golden reflex, the potent nose radiates bergamot and lime, complemented by fresh earth and white smoke. Buttressed by piercing acidity and steely minerality, the evocative palate emanates apricot and mirabelle, inbued with white pepper and fresh herbs. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the scented entry evolves into an exuberant mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Domaine Bechtold Obere Hund Pinot Noir 2012
Deep ruby with cardinal-purple rim, the charming nose provides cranberry, blackberry and morello cherry, embellished by violet. Supported by lively acidity and silky tannins, the attractive palate supplies redcurrant, red cherry and plum, enriched with rooibos tea. Medium-bodied at 14%, the tangy entry persists through a melodious mid-palate, leading to an elegant finish.

Available at Cottage Vineyards; Contact: Ms Ada Leung; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages