The Lusitanian Nobility

Known as Ribatejo (literally: banks of Tagus) until 2009, the wine region of Tejo takes its name directly from the all-important Tagus River, meandering more than 1,000km from Aragon in northeastern Spain until the Portuguese capital Lisbon, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Sandwiched between Lisbon and Alentejo (literally: beyond / across Tagus), the river plays a decisive role in influencing Tejo’s terroir and moderating its climate.
Thanks to its temperate climate and fertile soil, not least the river connections to both Lisbon and Madrid, the Province of Ribatejo, roughly equivalent to the wine region or Tejo, has for long been one of Portugal’s richest and most important, functioning as the midway point for commerce between Portugal and Spain from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. In oenological terms, excessive yields can be problematic, but where yields are controlled, Tejo is entirely capable of producing fine wines, often blending traditional Portuguese varieties with international ones.
Established in 1648, the year the Thirty Years’ War ended with the Peace of Westphalia, Casa Cadaval is of aristocratic heritage. Cadaval is the name of a Lisbon District (Distrito de Lisboa), but the ducal House of Cadaval actually descends from House of Braganza, which produced a staggering 11 Kings of Portugal from the mid-17th to the early 19th century, as well as both Emperors of Brazil in the 19th century.
House of Braganza, in turn, descends from the Portuguese House of Burgundy, which has produced numerous overlords on the Iberian Peninsula. Its parent house is the House of Burgundy, one of the oldest and most important in French history which ruled the Duchy of Burgundy from the early 11th to the mid-14th century. Tracing further back, one would arrive at the House of Capet, the Frankish dynasties as well as the rather obscure Dark Ages. It is, therefore, impossible to fathom the depth and legacy of the House of Cadaval without evoking the weight of centuries of European history.
Casa Cadaval is a giant of Tejo and indeed Portuguese wine. For nearly four centuries, this prominent estate has been producing fine wines from its 50ha of prime vineyards, planted mainly with indigenous Portuguese varieties. In addition to modern facilities and techniques, the estate insists on sustainable viticulture, manual harvest and very low yield. It is no wonder that Casa Cadaval’s fine wines have won numerous prizes, and are exported various regions around the world.

   Casa Cadaval Padre Pedro Reserva 2011
An innovative blend of Arinto and Viognier with little oak influence. Rich lemon-yellow with bright golden reflex, the aromatic nose radiates apricot, peach and coconut flesh, enriched with pistachio, crème Chantilly and butterscotch. Supported by vibrant acidity and palpable minerality, the compelling palate supplies yuzu, pear Williams, nectarine and green almond, infused with Pekoe white tea and camellia. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the tangy entry transforms into a nutty mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. This fine white, drinking beautifully already, resembles nothing less than a top-notch white northern Rhône.

Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta 2010
Sourced from old vines averaging 60 years, this single-varietal Trincadeira (otherwise known as Tinta Amarela) was matured for 12 months in French oak barrels and 6 months in bottle. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the powerful nose oozes prune, liquorice, mocha coffee, dark chocolate and roasted hazelnut, decorated by violet. Buttressed by abundant acidity and tasty tannins, the muscular palate delivers damson, coffea arabica, Assam black tea, tobacco, wild mushroom and game. Full-bodied at 13.5%, the impressive entry carries onto an expansive mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. Bold and potent throughout, this fine red rivals the very best of southern Rhône with much age-worthiness.

Casa Cadaval Pinot Noir 2008
A single-varietal Pinot Noir, matured for 6 months in French oak barrels and 6 months in bottle. Bright garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the graceful nose emanates blackberry, cassis, cinnamon, vanilla spice and sous bois, adorned with violet petal. Underpinned by delightful acidity and silky tannins, the endearing palate provides cranberry, red cherry, nutmeg, tobacco, black truffle and cedarwood. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the elegant entry evolves into a profuse mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. If tasted blind, one could well be forgiven for mistaking this fine red for a grand cru Burgundy. This is an exceptionally attractive Pinot Noir, and very approachable too.

Casa Cadaval Marquesa de Cadaval 2010
Sourced from old vines averaging 50 years, this authentic Portuguese blend of Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet was matured for 12 months in French oak barrels and 12 months in bottle. Deep garnet with Burgundy-carmine rim, the redolent nose effuses cassis, black cherry, plum, bouquet garni, vanilla spice, cocoa and sous bois. Braced by ample acidity and ripe tannins, the profound palate offers blackberry, damson, black olive, tobacco leaf, coffea arabica and sandalwood. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fruit-driven entry continues through a compact mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish. A monumental red, matched by its premium bottle, which demands and deserves patience.

To discover the legacy of Casa Cadaval, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: [email protected]; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.