The Portuguese Guardian

Of the various wine regions in Portugal, Douro is no doubt the jewel in the crown. It is one of the very few wine-producing UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and the exquisite reds and majestic ports it produces have for centuries been renowned across Europe. The British, for one, almost appropriated port as their own national drink. So intense was foreign interest that British, German and Dutch wine merchants took root in Douro. If port is the pride of Portugal, then counterintuitively, more of it is now produced by foreigners than Portuguese.

One exception, indeed exceptional story, is the Alves de Sousa family, who have viticulture and winemaking in their blood for generations. Having for many years supplied to such household names as Borges and Ferreira, the family resolved to make port on their own. Domingos Alves de Sousa, the mastermind behind this radical change, painstakingly re-organised the family’s holdings into 5 quintas (“estates” in Portuguese).

With generations of experience in and knowledge of Douro, not least the familial attachment thereto, the family quickly established itself as one of the rising stars in Douro, having been award the prestigious Producer of the Year prize by Revista de Vinhos, Portugal’s leading wine publication, in 1999 and again 2006. Alves de Sousa is a Récoltant-Manipulant (if there is such a thing in Douro) of a port producer, using only grapes from its own quintas, hence the distinctive individuality and exceptional quality.

Alves de Sousa Caldas White Port NV
A blend of Malvasia Fina, Viosinho and Gouveio et al. Vinified like a tawny with up to 4 days of maceration, the wine spent on average 8 years in concrete vats with carefully controlled oxidation as opposed to wood casks, hence the purity of fruits and complexity. Bright amber with shimmering copper-marigold reflex, the nose is aromatic and evocative, offering loquat and dried apricot for fruits, intertwined with cinnamon, osmanthus and white smoke. Braced by vivacious acidity, the palate is expressive and invigorating, delivering lemon peel, dried peach and crystallised grapefruit for fruits, augmented by ginger and elderflower. Medium-sweet (91g residual sugar per litre), richly textured and medium-full bodied at 19%, the energetic entry evolves into a spicy mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Alves de Sousa Quinta da Gaivosa Tawny 20
A blend of Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Tinta Barroca et al. Vinified with up to 4 days of maceration, the wine was patiently matured for on average 20 years in old French oak barrels. Bright mahogany with glowing copper-vermillion reflex, the airy and haunting nose effuses white cherry and dried strawberry for fruits, interlaced with cinnamon, gingerbread, caramel and sakura. Underpinned by ebullient acidity and velvety tannins, the palate is melodious and scented, radiating hawthorn, ume and mango chutney for fruits, enriched by hazelnut, mocha coffee and treacle. Sweet (118g residual sugar per litre), exquisitely textured and medium-bodied at 19.5%, the discreet entry continues through a nuanced mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Alves de Sousa Quinta da Gaivosa LBV 2004
A blend of old-vine (over 60 years) Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Tinta Roriz. Vinified with up to 4 days of maceration, the wine was matured for 4 years in old casks and concrete vats, then bottle in 2009. Dark garnet with attractive carmine-rosewood rim, the nose is baroque and resplendent, radiating damson, dried cherry and cassis confit for fruits, interwoven with clove, Christmas spice and cherry blossom. Buttressed by vibrant acidity and succulent tannins, the palate is luxurious and operatic, oozing plum, prune and brandy-soaked cherry for fruits, enhanced by allspice, cocoa and tobacco. Sweet (105g residual sugar per litre), lushly textured and medium-full bodied at 19%, the enticing entry carries onto a harmonious mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.Jacky I.F. Cheong

To experience quintessential Portuguese port, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages