The Prussian Crown

As per traditional wisdom, Mosel collocates with femininity whereas Rheingau masculinity. Situated geographically – and stylistically – between the two, Nahe is often referred to as the middle child of German Riesling. It is, however, grossly unjust to regard Nahe simply as an eclecticism, as this somewhat underappreciated region is thoroughly sui generis.
One of the leading estates of the region, Gut Hermannsberg was established in 1902 by the Prussian state as Königlich Preußische Weinbaudomäne (Prussian Royal Wine Domain). Vines – Riesling, of course – were first planted in 1903 on steep, craggy and rocky land, including a former copper mine. With the industrial and industrious Zeitgeist of the time, rocks were blasted and huge masses of earth removed. For once and as a rarity, it was man, not god, that created vineyards, proudly owned by the estate ever since.
Gut Hermannsberg’s aristocratic pedigree lies not just in its history, illustrious as it is, but also in its vineyards. All of the estate’s vineyards – some 30ha in total – are classified as Große Lage (equivalent to Grand Cru), meaning theoretically every vineyard could have its own Großes Gewächs (equivalent to Premier Grand Cru) With Altenbamberger Rotenberg, Niederhäuser Hermannsberg, Niederhäuser Kertz, Niederhäuser Steinberg, Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube and Traiser Bastei in its possession, the estate has some of the best vineyards along the Nahe tributary, the majority of which are steep slopes at up to a 50 degree gradient, producing genuinely world-class Rieslings.
Recently, the World of Bacchus had the honour to be the first in the region to taste Gut Hermannsberg’s fine creations from the 2012 and 2013 vintages, which are now available to private and trade customers alike in Macao.

Gut Hermannsberg Niederhäuser Hermannsberg Riesling VDP Großes Gewächs 2012
The south-facing Niederhäuser Hermannsberg, a monopole of the estate, comprises schistous clay, loess and melaphyre, yielding 30hl/ha. Vivid citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the nose is eminently graceful, revealing bergamot and gooseberry for fruits, harmoniously interwoven with lemongrass, steely minerals and lotus. Braced by generous acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is highly cultured, effusing clementine, green apple, Tianjin pear and apricot for fruits, delicately infused with lavender. Medium-bodied at 13%, the elegant entry transforms into an animated mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. (retail price: ca. MOP$500)

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Kabinett VDP Große Lage 2013
A cuvée of Niederhäuser Steinberg and Altenbamberger Rothenberg, both south-facing, yielding 60hl/ha. Luminous citrine with light aureolin reflex, the nose is attractively nuanced, radiating kumquat, peach and mirabelle for fruits, neatly interwound with fragrant minerals and plum blossom. Maintained by vibrant acidity and appealing minerality with slight petillance, the palate is markedly joyous, delivering lime peel, bergamot, calamansi, green apple and green mango. Medium-bodied at 10%, the attractive entry continues through a juicy mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. (retail price: ca. MOP$360)

Gut Hermannsberg Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling VDP Großes Gewächs 2012
The south-facing Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube comprises porphyrite, melaphyre and slate detritus, yielding 30hl/ha. Brilliant citrine with glossy golden reflex, the nose is imposingly opulent, emanating calamansi, nectarine and coconut flesh for fruits, masterfully intertwined with sakura and white smoke. Buttressed by abundant acidity and pulsating minerality, the palate is truly regal, providing yuzu, apricot, physalis and guava for fruits, seamlessly complemented by cinnamon. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the discreet entry evolves into a spirited mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish. (retail price: ca. MOP$510)

Gut Hermannsberg Altenbamberger Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese VDP Große Lage 2013
The south-facing Altenbamberger Rothenberg comprises ancient red sandstone, schistous clay, and stony-sandy loam, yielding 45hl/ha. Rich citrine with pastel aureolin reflex, the nose is charmingly discreet, offering tangerine, Japanese pear and apricot for fruits, finely interlaced with honeycomb and white champaca. Sustained by vivacious acidity and lovely minerality with slight petillance, the palate is seductively fleshy, exuding nectarine, mirabelle, mango and yuzu marmalade for fruits, further enriched with white clover honey. Medium-full bodied at 8.5%, the succulent entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to an endearing finish. (retail price: ca. MOP$400)

To discover the historic legacy of Gut Hermannsberg, contact Mr Martin Palmer; W: www.finegermanwines.hk; E: martin@finegermanwines.hk

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages