The Andean Stripe

Stretching 4,300km from north to south but merely 160km – or 350km at the widest point – from east to west, Chile has to be one of the instantly recognisable countries on the world map. Chile covers some 750,000 sqkm, indeed twice the size of Germany, and has a population of about 18 million, slightly more populous than the Netherlands. This unusually elongated ribbon of land is marked by the Pacific to the west, Andes to the east, Atacama Desert to the north and Antarctica to the south.
Viticulture and winemaking were introduced to Chile by Spanish conquistadors and Catholic missionaries – notably the Jesuits, nicknamed “God’s Marines” – in the mid-16th century for the purpose of making sacramental wines. The earliest vines introduced were from Mexico, in turn brought from Spain thereto by Hernán Cortés, the ruthless conquistador that toppled the mighty Aztec Empire in the early 16th century. Cereza, Criolla, Misión and Moscatel (de Alejandría) were amongst the first to reach Chile. Although admittedly not the finest of varieties, they are easy to handle and prolific in yield, and can be consumed as table grapes or made into pisco (brandy).
Chile was known for its sweet wines during the 18th century, and French varieties were introduced to the country in mid-19th century by Don Silvestre Ochagavía Echazarreta, dubbed “the father of modern Chilean winemaking”. As viticulture in the Old World was obliterated by the phylloxera plague in the the late 19th century, Chile enjoyed its first golden age, being the only wine-­producing country free of the bug. For Chilean wine, much of the 20th century was frustratingly stagnant due to political and economic problems, but as democracy was restored in the 90s, so came investment and technology. The number of wineries has increased from roughly a dozen in 1995 to nearly 100 at present, and Chile is now the 9th largest (by volume) wine-producing and 5th largest wine-exporting country in the world.
Wine regions in Chile are mainly situated south of capital Santiago, stretching some 1,300km southward. The country is often described as a “viticulture paradise”, thanks to its long sunshine hours, huge diurnal temperature variation and high altitude. The relative lack of disease and pest is also good news for organic and biodynamic viticulture. On the downside, most of Chile is so dry that irrigation is a necessity, and since the climate is so reliably superb, its wines may exhibit less variation across vintages than its Old World counterparts, but that is a happy dilemma to have.
Instituted in 1995, Chile’s wine legislation is more American- than French-based. First, Chilean appellations largely follow the American region-subregion-district-locality specification model. Second, Chilean wine labelling requires majority but not totality: for domestic market, the stated variety, vintage, and region must respectively constitute min. 75%, 75% and 85% of the final product; for export market, the stated variety, vintage, and region must each constitute min. 85% of the final product. In terms of wine maturation, Especial, Reserva and Gran Vino denote at least 2, 4 and 6 years respectively, whereas other terms are not legally defined.
Carménère (a.k.a. Grand Vidure) is to Chile what Malbec is to Argentina and what Tannat is to Uruguay. With a host of French varieties plus notably Riesling and Gewürztraminer, Chile produces a full spectrum of wines, ranging from sparkling, white, rosé, red and sweet, but is most adept at white and red.

Viña Bisquertt La Joya Carménère Reserva 2012
A single-varietal Carménère from DO Valle de Colchagua. Dark garnet with carmine-purple rim, the intense nose offers blueberry, cassis, crushed leaf and charcoal. With fresh acidity and lively tannins, the potent palate delivers blackberry, black cherry, blackcurrant leaf and graphite. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the leafy entry continues through an energetic mid-palate, leading to a herbal finish.

Viña Bisquertt La Joya Merlot Gran Reserva 2012
A single-varietal Merlot from DO Valle de Colchagua. Dark garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the aromatic nose presents mulberry, plum, coffee, cigar box and oaky vanilla. With rich acidity and ripe tannins, the plump palate supplies black cherry, damson, allspice, game and hot iron. Full-bodied at 14%, the dense entry persists through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish.

Viña Bisquertt wines are available at China Duty Free Group outlets in Macao; W: www.cdfg.com.cn; E: [email protected]; T: +853 2870 2732

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages