The Aragonese Dynasty

If vitis vinifera were an empire, grape varieties would be its constituent kingdoms, duchies and principalities. There are aristocrats and noble grapes, however arbitrary or contentious the concept. Prominent members of the same family form dynasties, and closely related varieties make grape families. In the realm of viticulture, the Sauvignon, Pinot, Muscat and Grenache families have to be amongst the most influential.
Comprising four key members – Grenache Noir, Gris, Blanc and Peluda – the Grenache (Spanish: Garnacha; Catalan: Garnatxa) family is undoubtedly one of the most widely planted in the world. Its origin remains uncertain, but it probably originated from Catalonia, Roussillon or Sardinia – all used to belong to the Crown of Aragon. Note, however, that Garnacha Tintorera is not Grenache, but a synonym for the teinturier variety of Alicante Bouschet.
Within the family, Grenache Noir (Spanish: Garnacha Tinta; Catalan: Garnatxa Negre) and Grenache Blanc (Spanish: Garnacha Blanca; Catalan: Garnatxa Blanca) appear to be the more famous siblings, responsible for some of the famous wines from Southern Rhône (particularly Châteauneuf-du-Pape), Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, Rioja, Priorato and the Australian GSM (Grenache–Syrah–Mourvèdre) blend. However, both are often overshadowed by the purportedly more “noble” varieties of Syrah, Tempranillo and Viognier.
Members of the Grenache family tend to be robust in constitution, prolific in yield, sweetly fruity in taste, potent in alcohol and moderate in both acidity and tannins. If sourced from old vines from suitable sites and with controlled yield, Grenache can be very fine, substantial and terroir-expressive. Wines produced using varieties of this family include white, rosé, red, vin doux naturel and even Australian Port-style wines, indeed suffice for any tasting menu.
While Grenache Noir / Garnatxa Negre has earned critical acclaim in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Priorato, the lesser-known but extremely characterful Garnacha Peluda (literally: hairy Grenache) is making a name for itself amongst the connoisseur circles. Garnacha Peluda is able to survive and thrive under semi-arid climate with poor soil, by developing fine fibre – hence hairy – on the underside of its leaves to prevent the vine from dehydrating.
Named after the Montsant (literally: holy mountain) massif and surrounding Priorato on three sides, Montsant DO possesses a complex mix of soil composition like its illustrious neighbouring, including chalky clay, granitic sand, and slate on high altitude. Montsant DO is a rising star in Catalonia, and Vinyes Domènech is one of the foremost Garnacha Peluda specialists.

   Vinyes Domènech Rita 2011
A blend of 60% Garnacha Blanca and 40% Macabeo, matured in French oak for 4 months. Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the expansive nose offers mango, hami melon, roasted almond, caramel and white flowers. With generous acidity and firm minerality, the saturated palate delivers grapefruit, nectarine, fennel, butterscotch and sea salt. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the fleshy entry carries onto a rounded mid-palate, leading to a nutty finish.

Vinyes Domènech Bancal del Bosc 2011
A blend of 70% Garnacha Peluda, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah, matured in French and American for 6 months. Dark garnet with carmine-rosewood rim, the brooding nose presents black cherry, damson, black olive, spice box and balsam. With abundant acidity and chewy tannins, the potent palate supplies bilberry, prune, liquorice, garrigue and game. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the tangy entry continues through a lush mid-palate, leading to a long finish.

Vinyes Domènech Furvus 2010
A blend of 70% Garnacha Peluda and 30% Merlot, matured in French oak for 14 months. Dark garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose provides red cherry, plum, thyme, truffle and cigar box. With bounteous acidity and ripe tannins, the chiselled palate furnishes cassis, mulberry, rosemary, rooibos tea and sous bois. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the succulent entry evolves into a herbal mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish.

Vinyes Domènech Teixar 2010
A single-varietal Garnacha Peluda, matured in French and American oak for 13 months. Dark garnet with burgundy-purple rim, the floral nose effuses blackberry, blueberry, mixed spice, coffee beans and lavender. With energetic acidity and fine tannins, the variegated palate emanates cassis, mulberry, mint, warm spice and graphite. Full-bodied at 14.5%, the suave entry persists through an animated mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

To discover the hidden charm of Grenache, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: [email protected]; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages