The Catalonian Cession

(Continued from “The Catalonian Hinterland” on 25 September 2015)

That the Catalan region of Roussillon (Spanish: Rosellón; Catalan: Rosselló) is French but not Spanish and, therefore, that its wine follows the AOC rather than the DO system is the result of historical events so dramatic as to merit a novel sequence on the enthralling Bourbon-Habsburg rivalry.
Roussillon was a constituent of the Septimania region, which was in turn part of the Roman province of Gallia Narbonensis. In the 5th century, during the irreversible decline of the Western Roman Empire, it was ceded to the Visigothic Kingdom, and in the early 8th century conquered by the Moors. In the late 8th century, the Carolingian Empire occupied the region and established Marca Hispanica (the Spanish March) – guarded by a series of counties – as a buffer zone against the Moors.
Over the following centuries, the County of Barcelona gradually achieved supremacy over the other Catalan counties – including the County of Roussillon – and eventually established the Principality of Catalonia which, alongside the Kingdom of Aragon, was one of the principal states of the Crown of Aragon. By the time the High Middle Ages gave way to the Early Modern Period, the Kingdom of France and Kingdom Spain had largely consolidated their respective spheres of influence, which converged along the Pyrenees, resulting in frequent conflicts.
During the course of the Franco-Spanish War (1635–59), Portugal and Catalonia revolted against Habsburg Spain in 1640 and 1641 respectively. Under the leadership of Cardinal Richelieu, France aided both struggles, whether covertly or overtly. As retaliation, Felipe IV of Spain supported the Fronde revolt, which had to be strenuously put down by Cardinal Richelieu’s successor Cardinal Mazarin.
To politically conclude the militarily inconclusive Franco-Spanish War, the Treaty of the Pyrenees was signed between the belligerents in 1659. In addition to the French Flanders, Spain ceded all villages north of the Pyrenees to France, with the exception of the historic town of Llívia, to this day a Spanish exclave in France. Thenceforth, Roussillon became also known as French Catalonia to the French and Northern Catalonia to the Catalonians. Subsequent to the French Revolution, Roussillon became the rational-sounding département of Pyrénées-Orientales. (NB: Pyrénées-Orientales is currently part of the région of Languedoc-Roussillon, which will be merged with Midi-Pyrénées and become Languedoc-Roussillon-Midi-Pyrénées on 1 January 2016. The number of région in Metropolitan France will decrease from 22 to 13.)
Although part of France since 1659, Roussillon has remained culturally Catalan, with a clear majority of the population able to speak or understand Catalan. Oenologically, Roussillon wine may not yet be ready to challenge the might of Priorato, but it does shine brightly in Languedoc-Roussillon, with a particular expertise in vin doux naturel such as Banyul, Maury and Rivesaltes.

   Vigneron Catalans Côtes-du-Roussillon Villages Caramany 2010
A blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Rich garnet with cardinal-ruby rim, the floral nose offers morello cherry, plum, cocoa, forest mushroom and sandalwood. With lively acidity and firm tannins, the juicy palate delivers prune, dried bilberry, bouquet garni, allspice and cedarwood. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fruity entry carries onto a fresh mid-palate, leading to a lengthy finish.

Vigneron Catalans Côtes-du-Roussillon Villages Tautavel 2010
A blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Rich garnet with cardinal-carmine rim, the aromatic nose furnishes black cherry, prune, clove, garrique and lily. With vibrant acidity and ripe tannins, the rounded palate provides blackberry, damson, parsley, nutmeg and tobacco leaf. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the heady entry persists through a spicy mid-palate, leading to a focused finish.

Vigneron Catalans Côtes-du-Roussillon Villages Lesquerde 2010
A blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. Rich garnet with cardinal-crimson rim, the fragrant nose presents red cherry, damson, eucalyptus, sous bois and geranium. With vivacious acidity and fine tannins, the herbal palate supplies plum, black olive, rosemary, coffea arabica and game. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the frank entry continues through an energetic mid-palate, leading to a potent finish.

Vigneron Catalans Banyul Grand Cru les Murets d’Esprades 2005
A vin doux naturel made with 100% Grenache, aged with controlled oxidation for at least 4 years. Deep garnet with carmine-purple rim, the opulent nose radiates plum, raspberry jam, clove, malt sugar, white mushroom and rose. With abundant acidity and delicious tannins, the operatic palate oozes prune, cherry confit, dried tomato, Oolong tea, caramel and tawny port. Medium-sweet and full-bodied at 17.5%, the succulent entry evolves into a spiced mid-palate, leading to a savoury finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages