Possibly the most northerly wine-producing area of Europe, England can trace its viticultural history back to 1st century AD, when modern-day England and Wales were conquered by the Romans and became the province of Britannia. The Romans brought along vines and planted them as far north as Lincoln (from Lindum Colonia). Since then, England has been producing wine, almost continuously, for 2,000 years, as evidenced by Wrothham Pinot – a unique clone of Pinot Noir discovered in Kent, purportedly introduced by the Romans.
The Romans needed wine as military rations and, subsequent to Christianisation of the British Isles, wine continued to be produced, mainly for the Eucharist. 20 years after the Norman conquest of England, in 1086, the Domesday Book recorded some 40 vineyards in England. By the time Henry VIII ascended to the throne in 1509, England was home to more than a hundred vineyards.
Due to its cool and humid climate, England has always faced challenges in producing wine of reliable quality and quantity. Badly hit by the phylloxera plague in 2nd half of the 19th century, English viticulture was further hit when Lord Palmerston, then Prime Minister, slashed tax on imported wines to support free trade. During both World Wars, vineyards were converted to grow crops to feed the population. Modern English viticulture began in the 1970s, initially as a gentlemanly pursuit, but later became viable commercial operations. Thanks to technological advances and not least global warming, vines can now be grown in various parts of southern England.
As per the Wine Standards Board, England has more than 450 vineyards, totaling 1,500ha under vine. Some 90% are planted with white varieties such as Auxerrois Blanc, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Huxelrebe, Kerner, Madeleine Angevine, Müller-Thurgau, Reichensteiner, Schönburger, Seyval Blanc and Silvaner, indeed the varieties best suited to cool climate; the remaining 10% being red varieties such as Cascade, Pinot Noir and Triomphe d’Alsace.
Known as the garden of England, Kent is one of the main wine-producing areas of England. If grown on south-facing sites with limestone and chalk soil, Kent is entirely capable of producing fine sparkling wine, which has in recent years picked up many prizes in international competitions.
Gusbourne Estate Blanc de Blancs 2009
A single-varietal Chardonnay made as per méthode Anglaise with secondary fermentation in bottle. Light citrine with pastel golden reflex, the invigorating nose offers lime, Tianjin pear, sultana, tarte tatin and seashell. Braced by joyous acidity and medium-fine mousse, the energetic palate delivers bergamot, baked apple, greengage, hazelnut and lees. Medium-bodied at 12%, the refreshing entry carries onto a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.
Gusbourne Estate Brut Reserve 2008
A classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier made as per méthode Anglaise with secondary fermentation in bottle. Bright citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers lime peel, pomelo, guava, oatmeal and pear blossom. Supported by generous acidity and medium-fine mousse, the vibrant palate delivers calamansi, green apple, pear, soda biscuit and apple blossom. Medium-bodied at 12%, the fruity entry continues through an expressive mid-palate, leading to a clear finish. By Jacky I.F. Cheong
(Note: English wine and Welsh wine refer to wines produced in England and Wales respectively, whereas Scotland does not yet have any significant wine production, hence the lack of Scottish wine. British wine, meanwhile, refers to any drink produced in Britain by the fermentation of fruit juice or concentrate from anywhere in the world; British wine is more often than not a sweet wine similar to sherry.)
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night.
Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly
writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages
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