The Green Coast

Situated in northwestern Spain bordering Castilla y León to its east and Portugal to its south, Galicia – not to be confused with the other Galicia between Poland and Ukraine – is one of Spain’s 17 regions (Comunidade Autónoma). While the classic image of Spain is one of Mediterranean and semi-arid climate, the Costa Verde (literally: Green Coast) strip – comprising Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country – is decidedly Atlantic, i.e. cool, humid and windy.
The name Galicia originates from the Gallaeci, an ancient Celtic confederation of tribes which inhabited the area. Unlike the other 6 Celtic nations (from north to south: Scotland, Ireland, Isle of Man, Wales, Cornwall and Brittany), little if any Celtic language is still spoken in Galicia, but its lushly green landscape and traditional stone houses closely resemble the others, somehow revealing its Celtic heritage. Santiago de Compostela, the regional capital, is the destination of the Way of St. James, one of the most important Catholic pilgrimage routes in Europe.
Viticulture has existed in Galicia since or even before Roman times, and Galician wine has been exported to other parts of Europe since the 16th century. Here, the aromatic Albariño (called Alvarinho in Portugal) enjoys a position as dominant as Riesling in Germany. Famed for its crispy acidity and profuse fragrance, Albariño was believed to be a close relative of Riesling, brought to Galicia and northern Portugal by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century. With modern DNA testing, this has proven to be wrong. Regardless of its origin, Albariño has become a symbol of Spanish modernity in terms of white wines, a clear depart from the traditional heavily oaked style. Even if slightly higher than those in Vinho Verde, prices of Galician wines are nonetheless very competitive.
Galicia comprises a total of 5 DOs (Denominación de Origen): Monterrei, Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. Of the 5 DOs, Rias Baixas is to Galicia what Monção e Melgaço is to Vinho Verde. For a wine to be labelled as Rías Baixas, Albariño must continue at least 70% of the final blend. Similar to the Vinho Verde region to its south, most producers in Galicia are family-run smallholdings. Similarities between the two regions continue through the varieties, often known in slightly different names, e.g. Caíño (Cainho), Godello (Verdelho), Loureira (Loureiro), Mencía (Jaen) and Treixadura (Trajadura).

 Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2012
Translucent citrine with light golden reflex, the prise nose offers lime peel, pomelo, Tianjin pear, verbena and wet stone. Anchored by lively acidity and clear minerality, the refreshing palate delivers lemon peel, grapefruit, mirabelle, orchard blossom and seashell. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the attractive entry carries onto a juicy mid-palate, leading to a clean finish.

Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2011
Luminous citrine with bright golden reflex, the invigorating nose presents bergamot, calamansi, Japanese pear, frangipani and wet stone. Braced by vivacious acidity and precise minerality, the energetic palate supplies lime peel, sudachi, green apple, lemon blossom and seashell. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the elegant entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a crisp finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France,
and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages