The Guardian of Autochthones

In terms of viticulture and winemaking, the Old World and the New World differ from each other in numerous aspects such as terroir, style, production method, philosophy and classification. Blissfully bestowed by nature with vitis vinifera, the Old World inherently has a wider range of grape varieties suitable for winemaking than the New World. Learning the genealogy of viticulture, a discipline called ampelography, is akin to studying the evolution of land ownership and wine regulation, which in the Old World are often intricately related to the church and state.
Each and every wine-producing country in the Old World would have its proud list of autochthonous – i.e. indigenous – varieties, some of which are so time-honoured and distinctive that they are revered as “heritage varieties”. The fortune of these autochthonous varieties varies wildly from one another. Some enjoy a meteoric rise from the verge of extinction within just a few decades (e.g. Viognier), whereas others lose popularity and go into decline (e.g. Carignan).
Grüner Veltliner and Riesling might be making noises and grabbing headlines in Austria, but for the more adventurous and curious wine lovers, Austria’s many characterful and high-quality autochthonous varieties are a treasure trove to be unlocked.
The equivocally named Roter Veltliner, unrelated to the celebrated Grüner Veltliner, is a good starting point and a must-try. An ancient variety of nebulous parentage, it is mainly planted in Niederosterreich (particularly Wagram, Kamptal, Kremstal and Wachau). Yielding small berries in compact bunches, Roter Veltliner turns red as it ripens, not unlike other aromatic varieties such as Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Known for its acidity, body, freshness, intensity and ageworthiness, Roter Veltliner is one of the two parents of a host of Austrian varieties such as Frühroter Veltliner, Neuburger, Rotgipfler and Zierfandler.
A cross between Roter Veltliner and Silvaner, Neuburger originated from Wachau and spread to the wider Niederosterreich and even Thermenregion south of Vienna. Small berries in compact bunches, spiciness and textures are some of the characteristics Neuburger inherited from Roter Veltliner. Owing to Silvaner, however, Neuburger tends to be moderate in acidity and prone to botrytis, hence capable of making wines from across the entire sweetness spectrum.
A member-estate of Austria’s prestigious Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW), equivalent to Germany’s Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter (VDP), Weingut Mantlerhof is one of the leading producers of Roter Veltliner and Neuburger in Austria, in addition to its Erste Lage – equivalent to German Großes Gewächs – Grüner Veltliner and Riesling gems. Owned and run by the same Mantler family for many generations, Weingut Mantlerhof has for more than 200 years been located in a historic manor, which used to belong to the magnificently Baroque Stift Admont, a Benedictine monastery in Steiermark which boasts the largest monastic library in the world. Now at the helm of this thoroughly organic estate are Sepp and Margit Mantler, along with their three children Viktoria, Agnes and Josef.

Mantlerhof Gedersdorf Reisenthal Roter Veltliner 2015
A single-varietal Roter Veltliner. Luminous citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the attractive nose presents lime peel, kumquat, fresh leaves and crushed rock. Anchored by energetic acidity and clear minerality, the animated palate furnishes lemon peel, pomelo, garden herbs and wet stone. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the tangy entry continues through a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a herbaceous finish.

Mantlerhof Gedersdorf Hommage Neuburger 2015
A single-varietal Neuburger. Bright citrine with soft golden reflex, the invigorating nose offers green apple, green bell pepper, crushed rock and white smoke. Braced by ample acidity and clean minerality, the vibrant palate delivers green pear, lime, fresh herbs and wet stone. Medium-full bodied at 13%, the bracing entry persists through a lively mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish.

Mantlerhof Gobelsburg Kranz Grüner Veltliner 2015
A single-varietal Grüner Veltliner. Limpid citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the elegant nose effuses lime peel, calamansi, verbena and wet stone. Supported by generous acidity and firm minerality, the serene palate emanates pomelo peel, bergamot, white tulip and crushed rock. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the pristine entry evolves into a creamy mid-palate, leading to a spicy finish.

Weingut Mantlerhof: www.mantlerhof.com;
E: weingut@mantlerhof.com

* Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages