The Levantine Cedar

Home to one of the most ancient winemaking cultures in the world, Lebanon has been producing wine for at least 5,000 years. Archaeology indicates that vitis vinifera was probably brought to Lebanon by some of the first traders in history from South Caucasus via either Mesopotamia or the Black Sea. Predating the Greeks and Romans, the Phoenicians were responsible for propagating viticulture and winemaking not only in the Levant – including from north to south Syria, Lebanon and Israel – but also across the southern Mediterranean basin.
Wine was an important part of the ancient Canaanite religion, the Phoenicians being a Semitic thalassocratic people, and the ubiquitous Greco-Roman myths of Dionysus (Greek) and Bacchus (Roman) possibly originated therefrom. Traded and shipped from the ancient port city of Byblos, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, Tyrian (Tyre) and Sidonian (Sidon) wines had achieved “cult wine” status long before the emergence of the Greek Chian (Chios), Coan (Kos) and Cretan (Crete) wines, as well as the Roman Alban (Alban Hills), Caecuban (Pontine Marshes) and Falernian (Mt. Falernus) wines.
Under Islamic Arab rule from the seventh to 19th century, Lebanese winemaking was largely subdued, although viticulture per se was not. Modern Lebanese winemaking is intricately linked to France. For starters, it was “God’s Marines” the Jesuits who in 1857 planted Cinsault vines from Algeria in central Beqaa Valley (alternatively spelt “Bekaa Valley”). To this day, Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon varieties remain the most planted within Lebanon, although the country does have a host of indigenous varieties. It currently possesses around 30 wineries and 2,000ha under vine, producing some six million bottles annually.
Ever since its inception, Chateau Musar has been the quasi-ambassador of Lebanese wines. Founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, who descended from Picard crusaders who settled in Lebanon during the Second Crusade (1147–1149) and Third Crusade (1189–1192), Chateau Musar has been producing wine uninterruptedly – except for the 1976 vintage – despite recurrent wars in the region. In 1941, Gaston Hochar befriended Ronald Barton of Château Langoa-Barton (troisième cru from Saint-Julien), hence the inseparable link between Chateau Musar and Bordeaux.
Serge Hochar, Gaston Hochar’s eldest son and who passed away last year, took the helm in 1959. He insisted on making wines without additives, filtration, fining and sulphur. The wines are as natural as it gets, both famous and infamous for vintage and bottle variations. Extremely age-worthy, characterful and vigorous, Chateau Musar is no less than a rite of passage for students of wine.

  Chateau Musar Gaston Hochar Blanc 2006
A blend of the indigenous Obaideh and Merwah, the putative ancestors of Chardonnay and Sémillon respectively, sourced from 50-90 year-old vines grown at 1,300 asl. Luminous amber with rich golden reflex, the nose is aromatic and novel, offering hawthorn, persimmon, white sesame, beeswax and rosewood. Anchored by abundant acidity and clean minerality, the palate is complex and vibrant, delivering loquat, salted plum, fig chutney, walnut and café au lait. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the invigorating entry carries onto a dynamic mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Chateau Musar Gaston Hochar Rosé 2012
A blend of ca. 60% Obaideh and ca. 40% Merwah from the same provenance, aged for 9 months in French oak barrels. Radiant salmon-pink with light copper reflex, the nose is fragrant and intricate, furnishing cranberry, white cherry, leather, crushed rock and smoke. Braced by generous acidity, palpable tannins and clear minerality, the palate is floral and peculiar, supplying white strawberry, green olive, bouquet garni, brine and rose. Medium-bodied at 11.5%, the tangy entry evolves into a herbal mid-palate, leading to a prolonged finish.

Chateau Musar Gaston Hochar Rouge 2001
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsault, fermented in cement vats and aged for 12 months in French Nevers oak barrels. Bright garnet with brick-burgundy rim, the nose is intriguing and perfumed, effusing raspberry, strawberry, green olive, cigar box and potpourri. Buttressed by copious acidity, velvety tannins and structured minerality, the palate is alluring and scented, emanating cranberry, fig, black olive, bouquet garni and dark chocolate. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the candid entry continues through a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong 

Chateau Musar is available via multiple channels – wine merchants, hotels and restaurants etc.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages