The Spanish Kaleidoscope

Covering just over half a million square kilometres, Spain accounts for a lion’s share of 85% of the total area in the Iberian Peninsula. Often ranked the 3rd largest – sometimes pipped by the US depending on vintages – wine-producing country by volume, Spain is by some distance No.1 in terms of viticultural surface area. The discrepancy between volume and area has much to do with low yields, vine density and rainfall, as well as huge diurnal temperature variation, infertile soil and elevated altitude – at 600m asl, Spanish vineyards have some of the highest average altitude. Given the right human intervention, these factors are conducive to the production of high quality wines.
Although viticulture had existed in Spain since at least 3000 BC, winemaking was probably introduced thereto by the seafaring Phoenicians in ca. 1000 BC, thenceforth advanced by their offspring the Carthaginians and ultimately perfected by the Romans, who defeated the latter and annexed the peninsula. Subsequent to the Umayyad conquest in the 8th century, the status of winemaking became more peculiar than it would have been if under Christian rule. Although Islamic dietary laws generally forbid the consumption of alcohol, some rulers gladly took exception to the nectar, which to a certain extent also occurred in the Ottoman Empire in the eastern Mediterranean.
As Christendom gradually retook the entire peninsula from the Moors, wine production and consumption were fully normalised. During the Spanish Golden Age under Habsburg rule, Spanish colonizers, conquistadors, explorers and missionaries were the first to introduce vitis vinifera to the Americas, wherefrom they brought back to the Europe American oak and other flora and fauna, a process known as the Columbian Exchange. Spain was the original “empire on which the sun never sets” and, to this day, all countries situated in the American continents south of the US use Spanish as the official language (except Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana and Brazil). Long before the phylloxera plague and the subsequent introduction of American vine stock, American wine had already been playing an important role in Spain.
Since joining the EU in 1986, Spanish wine has achieved substantial improvement. Unsurprisingly, Catalonia is one of the spearheads of advancement. Based therein, Parés Baltà was established in 1930, and the family’s winemaking history can be traced back to 1790. Thoroughly biodynamic (Demeter-certified), Parés Baltà is a polyglot of a wine estate, cultivating – and excelling at – 18 varieties in its 176ha of vineyards.

   Parés Baltà Cava Rosa Cusiné 2010
A single-varietal Garnatxa Negra (Grenache Noir) from Penedès. Light salmon pink with pastel copper reflex, the refreshing nose emanates red apple, rosehip and garden herbs. With fine mousse, abundant acidity, fresh minerality and traces of tannins, the invigorating palate provides Seville orange, white cherry and dried herbs. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the pure entry continues through a tangy mid-palate, leading to a floral finish.

Parés Baltà Electio 2010
A single-varietal barrel-fermented Xarel-lo from Penedès. Rich golden with luminous sunshine reflex, the enigmatic nose effuses walnut, saffron, olive oil and ham. With generous acidity and clear minerality, the intriguing palate furnishes physalis, Williams pear, green olive and almond. Medium-bodied at 13%, the fresh entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to a composed finish.

Parés Baltà Dominio Romano 2011
A single-varietal Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) from Tibera del Duero. Dark garnet with carmine-purple rim, the brooding nose offers bilberry, black cherry, clove, dark chocolate and black tea. With rich acidity, tasty tannins and structured minerality, the aromatic palate delivers cassis, damson, black olive, coffee and fresh earth. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the dainty entry evolves into a vivacious mid-palate, leading to a long finish.

Parés Baltà Gratavinum 2πr 2009
A blend of 60% Garnatxa Negra, 25% Cariñena (Carignan), 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah from Priorat. Reddish black cardinal-carmine rim, the fragrant nose presents black cherry, plum, nutmeg, mushroom and crushed rock. With bounteous acidity, ripe tannins and palpable minerality, the scented palate supplies cassis, damson, clove, dark chocolate and rose tisane. Medium-full bodied at 15%, the candid entry persists through a redolent mid-palate, leading to an exuberant finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To explore the treasures of Spain, contact Ms Ada Leung of Cottage Vineyards; W: www.cottagevineyards.com; E: adaleung@cottagevineyards.com; T: +853 6283 3238

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages