The Wildness of Beauty II

(Continued from “The Wildness of Beauty” on 28 November 2014)

Although similar in size, Alsace and Corsica could hardly be more different – the former is Germanic and continental with a French twist, the latter Mediterranean and insular with an alpine backbone. In wine classification, whereas Alsace painstakingly adheres to must weight, terroir and grand cru, Corsica attaches great importance to indigenous varieties, climatic diversity and geographical location.
It is no surprise, therefore, that the relatively small island has no less than 10 geographical indications, including the Vins de Pays-level Île-de-beauté IGP; the generic Corse AOC; the more specific Corse-Calvi, Corse-Coteaux-du-Cap-Corse, Corse-Figari, Corse-Porto-Vecchio and Corse-Sartène – all being AOCs, not unlike Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages; the stand-alone Ajaccio and Patrimonio AOCs; and Muscat du Cap-Corse AOC for vin doux naturel.
Altitude plays an important role in Corsica’s diversity. Although the island is renowned for its magnificent beaches, coastal lowlands below 600m a.s.l. are in fact confined to the periphery of Corsica. Further inland is the montane area, between 600m and 1,800m a.s.l.. At the heart of the island lies the alpine zone, up to 2,700m a.s.l., which is as elevated as the Bavarian Alps.
Most vineyards are located in the first two regions, indeed sandwiched between the sea and mountain. As is the case in many parts of the world, terraced vineyards located at elevated altitudes tend to produce finer wines. Owing to the cool climate, some of Corsica’s white wines can possess so much acidity and minerality and they remind one of Savoie or Swiss wines. Rarely reaching 14% ABV, meanwhile, the reds can be full of intensity and character, which are perhaps the hallmark of Corsica.

   Clos Poggiale – Blanc 2012
A single-varietal Vermentino from Corse AOC. Rich lemon-yellow with bright citrine reflex, the concentrated nose offers lime peel, yuzu, nectarine, olive and maquis. Possessing abundant acidity, the focused palate supplies lemon peel, grapefruit, apricot, fleur de sel and lavender. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the floral entry carries onto an expansive mid-palate, leading to an aromatic finish.

Domaine de Terra Vecchia Cuvée Albaria – Blanc 2012
A single-varietal Vermentino from Corse AOC. Bright citrine with light golden reflex, the perfumed nose radiates bergamot, kumquat, pear, white tea, plum blossom and fine chalk. With generous acidity and pronounced minerality, the harmonious palate presents lime peel, grapefruit, greengage, lavender tisane, rock salt and seashell. Medium-full bodied at 12.5%, the scented entry evolves into a herbal mid-palate, leading to a lingering finish.

Domaine de Terra Vecchia Tentation – Rosé 2013
A blend of Nielluccio and Sciaccarello from the evocatively named Île de Beauté IGP. Bright coral with pink-Portland orange reflex, the fragrant nose effuses strawberry, pink apple, cucumber and rose. With joyous acidity and delicate tannins, the palate delivers bergamot, rose hip, white cherry and bouquet garni. Medium-light bodied at 11%, the refreshing entry continues through a flowery mid-palate, leading to a pure finish.

Clos Poggiale – Rosé 2013
A blend of Nielluccio and Syrah from Corse AOC. Pale salmon pink with bright coral pink reflex, the uplifting nose emanates rose hip, courgette, bacon and geranium. With tantalising acidity and traces of tannins, the fleshy palate provides white cherry, pink grapefruit, fresh herbs and rose petal. Medium-bodied at 12%, the invigorating entry persists through a herbaceous mid-palate, leading to a minerally finish. By Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

To discover the charm of the Island of Beauty, contact Mr Vincent Cervoni of the Corsican Wine Board (Asia); W: www.asia.vinsdecorse.com; E: vincent@vinsdecorse.com

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages