Located 950km southwest of Lisbon, Madeira is one of the outermost European territories, and one that produces wine. The volcanic archipelago is one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal, the other being Azores, comprising the forested and temperate Madeira (literally: wood), the hot and arid Porto Santo, the Desertas and the Savage Islands, both uninhabited.
Details regarding the discovery of Madeira remain unclear. The archipelago was alluded to since Roman times, and it appeared in 14th century maps and manuscripts. However, it was the sailors under Henry the Navigator who claimed it in 1419 and began settlement after 1420. It was Portugal’s very first territorial gain during its golden age of discovery. Madeira wine was so fine, that Sir John Falstaff in Shakespeare’s Henry IV allegedly sold his soul for a chicken leg and a goblet of the wine. Legend has it that, when Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV, was condemned to death, he elected to be executed by drowning in a vessel of Malvasia.
In 17th century, Madeira was an important supply station in the north Atlantic. To survive long voyages, the wine was fortified. Where the wine was not sold, it was shipped back to its owner in Madeira. Having endured subtropical heat during sustained period of time, the “round trip wine” (Portuguese: vinho do roda) actually gained complexity. Madeira, as we know it, was invented from an unintended consequence. It was the wine used to toast the US Declaration of Independence.
Modern Madeira is often produced as varietals eg dry Sercial, medium-dry Verdelho, medium-sweet Boal and sweet Malvasia. The wine is fortified with Portuguese grape brandy (aguardente vínica), then heated to high temperature for months, followed by alternate heating and cooling for months while maturing in large old barrels. High-end Madeira still follows the canteiro method, heated by only the sun and stored for 20 to 100 years. Not unlike Port wine, designations such as reserve, colheita and vintage exist in Madeira wine too.
The longevity of Madeira is of biblical proportions: it matures persistently in barrel, keeps almost indefinitely in bottle and, even after opening or aerating, still has months ahead of it.
Justino’s East India Madeira Old Reserve 10 Years Old
Dark mahogany with sinopia rim, the aromatic nose radiates black cherry, nutmeg, coffea Arabica, caramel, hazelnut and gingerbread. Buttressed by vivacious acidity, the corpulent palate offers hawthorn, ume, cinnamon, treacle, almond and fruitcake. At 19%, this blend – 95% Tinta Negra with 5% other red varieties – is medium-sweet and full-bodied: the refreshing entry carries onto a vibrant mid-palate, lead to a nutty finish.
Justino’s Madeira Boal 10 Years Old
Rich mahogany with ochre rim, the fragrant nose presents red cherry, bouquet garni, clove, cocoa, butterscotch, marzipan and hazelnut. Maintained by vibrant acidity, the succulent palate exudes mandarin peel, ume, allspice, café au lait, sweet ginger and hazelnut spread. At 19%, this single-varietal Boal is medium-sweet and medium-full bodied: the fleshy entry continues through an energetic mid-palate, leading to a spiced finish.
Justino’s Madeira Malvasia 10 Years Old
Deep mahogany with tawny rim, the floral nose reveals white cherry, shredded coconut, star anise, Christmas spice and fudge, adorned with iris. Sustained by racy acidity, the seductive palate delivers Seville orange, ume, mango chutney, oaky vanilla and crème brûlée, garnished with orange blossom. At 19%, this single-varietal Malvasia is fully sweet and medium-full bodied: the juicy entry evolves into a rich mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish.
Available at Palatium Fine Wines; Contact: Mr Pedro Lobo; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782
by Jacky I.F. Cheong
Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.
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