The Atlantic Soul

Situated in the westernmost of the European continent, Portugal is less of a Mediterranean or southern European country than an Atlantic one. Sharing – if uncomfortably – the Iberian Peninsula with Spain, Portugal curiously does not follow the central-western European clock, but that of the British Isles.
Surrounding the capital Lisbon from north and west, Vinho Regional de Lisboa is probably the most westerly wine region of Europe. This long and thin region, previously known as Estremadura, stretches along the Atlantic coast. With a cool and windy climate, achieving ripeness is actually a challenge facing vines planted in coastal areas. Moving inland, protection finally comes in the form of hills and mountains as in Alenquer, with a climate that is warmer, less windy and less wet.
A wide range of grape varieties and styles can be found in the Lisbon region, which includes a total of 9 DOCs (Denominação de Origem Controlada): Alenquer, Arruda, Bucelas, Carcavelos, Colares, Encostas de Aire, Lourinhã, Óbidos and Torres Vedras. As often is the case in Portugal, the same grape variety can take different names in Lisbon, Alentejo and Douro.
One of the oldest estates in Alenquer, Quinta dos Plátanos has been owned by the same wine-producing family since the 17th century. It began exporting wines to France through Bordeaux long ago, and owners of the estate were instrumental in Portugal’s recovery from the phylloxera plague by introducing vines from America.

  Quinta dos Plátanos Arinto 2013
Widely planted in Portugal, Arinto is known for its acidity and freshness, as demonstrated by this Vinho Regional de Lisboa. Rich lemon-yellow with light golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers quince, grapefruit and guava, decorated by jasmine. Supported by crispy acidity, the tantalising palate delivers lime peel, green apple and starfruit, infused with fresh herbs. Medium-light bodied at 13%, the tangy entry carries onto a lively mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish.

Quinta dos Plátanos Branco 2013
A blend of Arinto and the aromatic Fernão Pires from Alenquer, one of the most highly regarded DOCs in the Lisbon region. Bright lemon-yellow with light golden reflex, the tropical nose reveals yuzu, apricot and pineapple, elaborated with cut grass. Buttressed by joyous acidity, the refreshing provides lime peel, lemon and green apple, imbued with fresh herbs. Medium-bodied at 13%, the citrusy entry continues through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a composed finish.

Quinta dos Plátanos Tou Noir 2010
This Vinho Regional de Lisboa is an innovative blend of Touriga Nacional and Pinot Noir, arguably the finest of Portugal and France. Dark garnet with carmine-ruby rim, the fruit-driven nose emanates brandy-soaked cherry, cassis and nutmeg, adorned with geranium. Braced by lively acidity and rich tannins, the heady palate supplies black cherry, damson and tobacco leaf, augmented by sous bois. Medium-bodied at 14%, the fruity entry persists through a potent mid-palate, leading to a tannic finish.

Available at Palatium Fine Wines; Contact: Mr Pedro Lobo; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.