From back alleys to architectural gems: Jason Wordie redefines narrative of Macau

Historian Jason Wordie shared the history of Macau yesterday at the launch of his latest book, “Macao: People and Places, Past and Present.” Wordie, whose walking tours breathe life into the forgotten corners of Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou, is a Hong Kong-based author and University of Hong Kong history graduate with an encyclopedic memory.

The illustrated volume dives deep into the heart of Macau, revealing its history and diverse culture through captivating details and unexpected anecdotes.

As Wordie described it, the book not only illuminates the city’s past but also honors the countless individuals who have shaped Macau into the unique crossroads of cultures it is today.

In an interview with the Times, Wordie describes his writing process as a labor of love spanning two and a half decades.
“It represented 25 years of reading and six years of writing,” Wordie said. The process, he explained, was intermittent as his other professional journalism commitments periodically interrupted his progress.

“I really probably started on it in about 2005 or 2006 with my initial ideas. It sort of stopped and started, and stopped and started again.”

Wordie’s research involved a multi-pronged approach, blending extensive secondary reading, primary field research, and oral history interviews.

Physically exploring the city’s streets and neighborhoods was a crucial component of Wordie’s process.

“Walking up the back streets, seeing what’s there, and thinking, ‘Oh, what’s that?’ and then trying to find out some information on it – there was a lot of physical activity involved,” he said.

Wordie’s passion for the subject never waned, as he became increasingly fascinated by the diverse architectural styles and influences present in Macau.

“The enthusiasm never passed,” he said. “I was fascinated.”

Uncovering the multicultural tapestry

As Wordie was immersed in the architectural and cultural history of Macau, he has made it a priority to shed light on the region’s often overlooked multicultural heritage. In contrast to the common “Sino-Portuguese binary” narrative, Wordie’s research has revealed the diversity in ethnic and cultural groups that has shaped Macau over the centuries.

“I think this is something that has changed over time. That’s something I’ve always attempted to focus upon – what about all the others?” Wordie said.
Through his extensive fieldwork and interviews, Wordie has illuminated the contributions of various ethnic and cultural groups that have long been marginalized in the dominant historical accounts.

“Having done these walks to explore the various cultural groups, you’ve also got to be able to condense something into a fairly short bite-sized bit, so that readers can chew it up and intellectually understand it,” he said.

Wordie’s approach has involved delving into the nuanced connections and influences that have shaped Macau’s culinary and architectural landscapes.

“If we went up to Ruins St. Paul, obviously you’ve got to give the basic background to it. But then when you explore the sideways, you can see Japanese influence – the Japanese were linked into the silk trade and so on.”

Preserving identity in the face of rapid change

As Macau’s identity has evolved in recent decades, largely shaped by the rapid growth of its casino industry, Wordie cautions against overlooking the city’s rich multicultural heritage and diverse offerings beyond the glitz of gambling.

“It’s not just about the casinos,” Wordie said. “That’s, of course, a central government push, but it’s not only about the casinos. You’ve got to look at other things.”

Wordie’s research has revealed a Macau that is far more than the stereotypical portrayal of a gambling mecca. He hopes his book will help readers appreciate the city’s uniqueness contained within a very tiny area.

This includes Macau’s history as an “international and cosmopolitan” hub, predating the current casino boom by centuries.

“This place had that centuries ago, and still retains that element,” Wordie said.

However, the author acknowledges the potential threat that unchecked capitalist development and mass tourism pose to Macau’s cultural identity.

“I mean, in some ways, the capitalist element drives elements of conservation, because some of these buildings would fall down or would no longer be here without an economic imperative,” he said.

Wordie worries about the risk of homogenization, where Macau’s diverse array of small businesses and unique cultural offerings are overshadowed by a “production line” of standardized tourist experiences.

“There’s more homogenization, and you walk outside and you think, ‘Well, the little shops and businesses that were here before can’t compete with the foot traffic for other stuff.’”

With the book’s recently reprint following a successful first run, Wordie hopes to see it reach an even wider audience through translations into Chinese and Portuguese. For this author, uncovering Macau’s architectural gems has been a lifelong pursuit, one that has clearly left an indelible mark. Victoria Chan