The Hope Against Hope

Detractors of Bordeaux wine often point to the fact that many bordelais estates have in the last decades become quasi-investment instruments, that vineyards have become akin to real estate in London and Paris, and that foreign-owned estates have lost touch with the people, as manifested by sky-high en primeur prices pre-2012. Whereas such allegations are true with regards to some estates, it would be grossly unjust to generalise, as time-honoured estates with illustrious history and family traditions do exist, and Château de Myrat is a prime example.
The château was (re-)built by a Monsieur Demirat, a royal advocate of the Roi-Soleil Louis XIV, hence its name. The deuxième cru estate is now owned and managed by the de Pontac family, which rose to fame – indeed recorded in the annals of history – in the first half of the 16th century, when Jean de Pontac established the premier cru Château Haut-Brion in 1533. This fine gentleman would live to a ripe old age of 101, through the reigns of 6 successive monarchs: Louis XII, François I, Henri II, François II, Charles IX and Henri III.
In 1660, his descendant Arnaud de Pontac was elected Président of Parlement de Bordeaux, a noble institutions which prominent figures including the Renaissance philosopher Michel de Montaigne and Enlightenment polyglot Montesquieu served as conseillers. With maritime trade on the ascendant, Arnaud de Pontac helped propagate a new type of full-bodied, deeply coloured and richly flavoured wine, known in the English-speaking world as claret. Venturing across the English Channel, he opened the Pontac’s Head, a thoroughly English-sounding tavern in London, which became one of the most fashionable spots of the city.
The de Pontac family went on to own and manage various estates in southern Bordeaux, especially in Grave and Sauternes. In 1937, when the clouds of tension hanged over Europe, Comte (equivalent to Count in English aristocracy) Max de Pontac acquired Château de Myrat. Subsequent to dramatic events in the second half of the 20th century, the estate began to restore its former glory in the 1990s. This extraordinary turnaround is perfectly epitomised by the Latin motto of the de Pontac family: spe sine spe (literally: hoping against hope). Such is the everlasting passion of this venerable winemaking family.
Château de Myrat has 22ha under vine situated on the Haut-Barsac plateau, with limestone-clay soil on fissured limestone bedrock. In addition to its fine gems and exceptional price-quality ratio, this estate offers also an admirable family history.

Château de Myrat 2011
A blend of 88% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle, matured for 22 months in French oak barrels (1/3 new). Incandescent citrine with glittering golden reflex, the nose is gorgeously multifarious, effusing an enticing combination of dried apricot, crystallised tangerine, sweet ginger, cinnamon and butterscotch, embellished by elderflower. Braced by animated acidity and elegant minerality, the palate is magnificently decadent, oozing nectarine, shredded coconut, dried clementine, crystallised peach, fudge and marzipan. Unctuously textured, fully sweet and full-bodied at 13%, the refined entry evolves into a vibrant mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.

Château de Myrat 2011
A blend of 88% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle, matured for 22 months in French oak barrels (1/3 new). Incandescent citrine with glittering golden reflex, the nose is gorgeously multifarious, effusing an enticing combination of dried apricot, crystallised tangerine, sweet ginger, cinnamon and butterscotch, embellished by elderflower. Braced by animated acidity and elegant minerality, the palate is magnificently decadent, oozing nectarine, shredded coconut, dried clementine, crystallised peach, fudge and marzipan. Unctuously textured, fully sweet and full-bodied at 13%, the refined entry evolves into a vibrant mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.

Available via multiple channels – wine merchants, hotels and restaurants etc.

By Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages