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Taste of Edesia
Home›Extra Times›Taste of Edesia›MARVELOUS INTERPRETATION

MARVELOUS INTERPRETATION

By Irene Sam, MDT
December 24, 2014
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IMG_5424Situated right in the heart of the Macau peninsula is a charming, quaint hotel. In front of it is Jardim de Vasco da Gama, a lovely open area surrounded by buildings in the neighborhood. This is where the locals hang out, and Hotel Royal is located right in the middle of it all.
Bringing a new Portuguese dining concept to Macau, the hotel opened a restaurant named Fado, offering authentic cuisine and numerous bottles of exceptional Portuguese wine to discerning diners. Upon entering the space, diners are greeted with colorful bar stools. Fresh colors such as yellow, green, and blue remind one of Algarve, the southernmost region of Portugal. The visual experience continues on in the main dining area, where modernity is mixed with tradition.
Fado is a heaven for lovers of Portuguese wine. In addition to having an extraordinary wine menu, the food menu offers detailed wine-pairing suggestions to diners, all written by Chef Luis Américo, the guru and mastermind behind the success of Fado. Being one of the most prestigious and internationally recognized chefs from Portugal and having been in the culinary consulting business since 2005, Chef Luis was also recognized by the International Academy of Gastronomy headquartered in Paris with the award of “Chef D’avenir 2011.” In 2012, he was even invited to be on a TED conference.
To start, the genius pairs the marinated cod carpaccio, chickpeas, tomato and egg salad with the 2012 Casal de Santa Maria- Sauvignon Blanc. I have tasted many bottles of Sauvignon Blanc, but never expected a bottle to have green aromas of herbs and freshly cut grass. This wine from Colares, Portugal complements the earthy flavor of chickpeas beautifully.
While waiting for the second bottle of wine, I cannot help but notice the small details on our table- The Cutipol cutlery from Portugal presents itself in a sleek fashion. Teacups and teapot are also imported from Portugal. In navy blue and white, the design of the porcelain pays tribute to Azulejo, a form of Portuguese painted tile work. The lighthearted elegance is a visual feast in itself, and we cannot wait to go on to the second course, octopus with punched potatoes, olive oil, garlic, and onion’s confit.
Minutes later, the waitress pours me a glass of golden wonder, with the aromas of vanilla, quince, and toasted almonds. The 2010 Paço dos Cubas de Santar “Vinha do Cantador” from Dão is not only seductive on the nose and silky on the palate, but it also mingles wondrously with the sweetness of the onion’s confit. I am hopelessly hooked to the marvelous combination, yearning for salvation, but the decadence continues.
IMG_5431Last but the least, the meat dish arrives on our table, Entrecôte Mirandesa, a creation from Miranda do Douro in the north of Portugal. A ribeye steak drizzled with a sauce based on vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and bay leaves. Equally splendid, the 2009 Campolargo, Pinot Noir from Bairrada, Portugal is now within my sight. My hand begins to move involuntarily towards the wine glass. Aromas of red cherry and raspberry immediately fill the mouth. A soft, rich finish follows. While it enhances the meaty taste, it also made the carnivorous experience more elegant after all.
Relaxed and chilled, Chef Luis Américo laughs as he notices the look of pleasant surprise on my face.
“What is the quintessential Portuguese taste?” I ask.
“The quintessential Portuguese taste can be interpreted in many ways. In my mind, it is having the ability to revitalize classic recipes and flavors, combining historical flavors with a modern and contemporary twist. Just like the name of the restaurant, Fado, which can be interpreted in various ways in the Portuguese culture. It can mean a music genre, but it can also be interpreted as ‘destiny.’ And since we are destined to create wonderful dishes, we also ensure that the wine goes well with them,” he explains.
“Very good wines indeed,” I smile.

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