The Pastoral Symphony

Sandwiched between Wachau to its southwest and Kamptal to its northeast, Kremstal (literally: Krems Valley) is one of the top wine regions of Austria, producing some of the finest Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in this mortal world. Its beauty is breathtaking, for the historic Krems-an-der-Donau marks the northeastern end of the Wachau Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with majestic monasteries, picturesque towns, serene landscape and quaint agriculture.
Anecdotally, although the celebrated composer Ludwig van Beethoven is usually considered German, having spent 35 years of his life in Austria (as opposed to 22 years in what is now Germany), his timeless masterpiece Symphony No.6 in F Major Op.68 was actually composed in Austria. His inspiration, one might argue, could well be the Austrian Danube, not the German Rhine.
The climate of Kremstal is an intricate balance co-created by the easterly warmth from the Pannonian Plain, northerly chill from the nearby Waldviertel and westerly breeze from the Alps, with the Danube as moderator. While Grüner Veltliner thrives in clay and loess, Riesling prospers in granite and gneiss – such is the diverse terroir of Kremstal, with ca. 2,250ha under vine.
One of the leading estates of Kremstal, Weingut Geyerhof was first chronicled in 1135. Since the 16th century, the estate has been owned and managed by the same family, living in the hilltop village of Oberfucha, initially focused on agriculture and brickwork. In the 18th century, Archduchess Maria Theresa, mother of Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II and Queen of France Marie Antoinette, granted the property holder, a Mr Geyer, a concession to transport wine on the Danube to trade with Hungary and other regions of the Habsburg dominions along the river, hence the ship on Geyerhof’s coat-of-arms. First built in the early 13th century, its “French Cellar” was commandeered by Napoleon to store wine rations for his Grande Armée at the Battle of Wagram in 1809, where he crushed the Fifth Coalition.
Upon taking the helm, proprietor-winemaker Ilse Maier fully embraced organic viticulture and winemaking in 1988, when the notion was very much an avant-garde one. Assisted by her son Josef Maier, Ilse Maier believes in “less is more”: organic growth, manual harvest, whole-bunch pressing, natural yeast, spontaneous fermentation and minimal intervention, hence the irrepressible elegance and freshness. Weingut Geyerhof is a member of, inter alia, the prestigious Traditionsweingüter Österreich, the Austrian equivalent of the German Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter.
In 2015, Weingut Geyerhof will organise various tastings in both Macao and Hong Kong. Its gems will soon be available. Meanwhile, do not miss the New Year’s Concert by the Vienna Philharmonic on 1st January. By Jacky I.F. Cheong

  Geyerhof Hoher Rain Grüner Veltliner 2013
Translucent citrine with luminous golden reflex, the fragrant and lifted nose offers bergamot, Japanese pear and white peach, decorated by lemon blossom. Supported by crispy acidity, clean minerality and slight petillance, the vivacious palate provides lime, greengage and bell pepper, infused with fresh herbs. Medium-bodied at 12.5%, the sprightly entry continues through an invigorating mid-palate, leading to a focused finish.

Geyerhof Steinleithn Grüner Veltliner Erste Lage 2013
Rich citrine with gleaming golden reflex, the aromatic and multifarious nose radiates lime peel, Williams pear, honeydew and brioche, embellished by white tulip. Underpinned by abundant acidity, palpable minerality and subtle petillance, the profuse and redolent palate oozes yuzu, apricot and greengage, augmented by asparagus and white pepper. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the nuanced entry transforms into an animated mid-palate, leading to an indelible finish.

Geyerhof Johannisberg Riesling 2013
Crystalline citrine with pastel golden reflex, the airy and perfumed nose effuses lime peel, yuzu and green apple, adorned with pear blossom. Reinforced by vibrant acidity and clear minerality, the adorable and vivacious palate supplies bergamot, calamansi and ume, elaborated with apple blossom. Medium-light bodied at 12.5%, the enchanting entry carries onto an elegant mid-palate, leading to a stylish finish.

Geyerhof Kirchensteig Riesling Erste Lage 2013
Intense citrine with glittering golden reflex, the graceful and scented nose emanates bergamot, kumquat, Tianjin pear and white cherry, garlanded by sakura. Braced by piercing acidity and pulsating minerality, the delightful and operatic palate delivers lime, sudachi and ume, imbued with fresh grass and verbena. Medium-bodied at 13%, the expressive entry evolves into a spirited mid-palate, leading to a redolent finish.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.