The Patriarch of Germany II

(Continued from “The Patriarch of Germany” on 18 August 2017)

Steeped in history and tradition, Rheingau possesses arguably the highest concentration of aristocratic and monastic wine estates anywhere in Germany and indeed Europe, with such illustrious names as Prinz von Hessen, Fürst Löwenstein, Graf von Kanitz, Baron Knyphausen, Domdechant Werner(’sches), Kloster Eberbach, Schloss Johannisberg and Schloss Vollrads etc., but to name a few. Rheingau’s elite status is perhaps best evidenced by the astounding fact that although it represents merely 3 percent of German vineyards, it boasts the largest number of VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter) member-estates – currently 36, with Graf von Schönborn temporarily suspended – amongst Germany’s 13 wine regions.

Rheingau is indisputably the Jerusalem of Riesling, “the world’s finest white wine grape variety, if the majority of top wine critics are to be believed” (Source: Wine-Searcher), a variety of such fame and nobility that it has few aliases, except Johannisberg Riesling, named after the eponymous Schloss Johannisberg. Akin to a gentlemanly competition, Schloss Vollrads, one of the brightest stars and most impressive estates in Rheingau, responded with a verifiable claim that Kabinett Riesling originated therefrom in 1716.

Formally incorporated in 1330, Schloss Vollrads is one of the 100 oldest companies, or seventh oldest wine estate, in the world. Vines have been grown there since Roman times, and indeed the main residential tower was built on solid Roman foundations. Its first sale of wine was documented in 1211, to the St. Viktor Monastery in Mainz, then an archbishopric. The manor house is generally not open to the public, but the author had the privilege to visit during the pre-Weinbörse press trip organised by the VDP, following the footsteps of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who visited in 1814, months after the crucial Battle of Leipzig, which decisively defeated Napoleon I.

A founding member of the VDP in 1897, Schloss Vollrads produces 100 percent Riesling and is per se an Einzellage (single vineyard) designation, i.e. it need not state on wine labels the name of the village – Winkel. It is tempting to rest on laurels, but Schloss Vollrads looks to the future: most of its wines are sealed with Vino-Lok glass stoppers to avoid cork taint, and the onsite photovoltaic system produces ca. 120,000 kilowatt hours per year, which would otherwise result in 80+ tons of CO2.

To be continued…

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Sekt Brut 2012

Subtle citrine with light golden reflex, the uplifting nose offers lime, green apple and white bread. With invigorating acidity, clear minerality and medium-fine mousse, the vivacious palate delivers pomelo, Japanese pear and soda bread. Medium-bodied at 12.5 percent, the citrusy entry carries onto a balanced mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish. Pure joie de vivre in a bottle.

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spätlese 2015

Crystalline cirtine with luminous golden reflex, the mesmerising nose reveals calamansi, Chinese pear, honeydew, crushed rock, daffodil. With dynamic acidity, firm minerality and slight petillance, the spellbinding palate presents bergamot, green apple, mangosteen, clean slate and frangipane. Off-sweet and medium-full bodied at 7.5 percent, the succulent entry evolves into a melodious mid-palate, leading to an endearing finish. One can resist anything except temptation…

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett 2015

Limpid citrine with shimmering golden reflex, the adorable nose furnishes lime peel, pomelo, mirabelle and wet stone. With vibrant acidity, clean mineality and slight petillance, the buoyant palate supplies lemon peel, kumquat, pineapple and rock salt. Off-dry and medium-bodied at 9 percent, the fleshy entry continues through a toothsome mid-palate, leading to a moreish finish. Impossible not to love this Kabinett, a tradition at Schloss Vollrads since 1716.

Schloss Vollrads Riesling Trocken VDP Erstes Gewächs 2009

Rich citrine with bright golden reflex, the exalted nose effuses yuzu, peach, beeswax and paraffin. With bounteous acidity and structured minerality, the chiselled palate emanates grapefruit, apricot, honeycomb and kerosene. Medium-full bodied at 13percent, the stately entry persists through a saturated mid-palate, leading to a lush finish. This wine is already in its optimum drinking window.

Several wines tasted in situ, in the presence of Ms. Christine Müller (E: christine.mueller@schlossvollrads.com) of Schloss Vollrads (W: www.schlossvollrads.com), during the pre-Weinbörse press trip organised by the VDP (W: www.vdp.de; E: vdp@vdp.de). Additional samples supplied by Royal Orchid Wine (W: www.royalorchid.com.hk; E: info.hk@mideahk.com).

Jacky I. F. Cheong is a legal professional and columnist. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France
and Germany, he regularly comments on wine, fine arts, classical music and opera.