The Pride of Hungary

Located some 240km northeast of Budapest, Tokaj is Hungary’s preeminent wine region, so important in Hungarian history that its vineyards are mentioned in the national anthem. A classified wine region since 1730 and the oldest in Europe, Tokaj is also one of the very few listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, alongside Austria’s Wachau, Germany’s Rhine and Portugal’s Douro. Thanks to its diverse terroir, favourable climate and crucially the proximity to the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, Tokaj and its wine, Tokaji, have been revered for centuries.
Tokaj produces both non-botrytised and botrytised (Aszú) wines, the latter across the sweetness spectrum, from five varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály (Muscat Blanc), Zéta and Kövérszőlő, although the last two are rarely used. Dry Tokaji can be fiery and spicy, but the main focus remains on the Tokaji Aszú wines. Sweetness is measured and clearly indicated by puttonyos: 3 for 60g+ of residual sugar per litre, 4 for 90g+, 5 for 120g+ and 6 for 150g+. The 7-puttonyos Essencia is produced in only the very best vintages – this is one of the sweetest and rarest wines on earth. (NB: starting from 2015, the 3- and 4- puttonyos categories will be abolished, and the Aszú wines will start from the new minimum of 130g.)
Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum (Wine of Kings, King of Wines), so declared Louis XIV, best sums up the illustrious history of Tokaji, whose loyal following included Pope Pius IV, Peter the Great, Louis XV, Frederick the Great, Napoleon III and Franz Joseph I, who used to send Victoria Tokaji Aszú on her birthday, one bottle for every month she had lived. On her 81st and final birthday in 1900, the gift consisted of 972 bottles. Tokaji was the literary muse of Voltaire, Goethe, Schiller and Heine, as well as the musical muse of Haydn, Beethoven, Schubert, Liszt and Johann Strauss the Younger.
Due to Tokaji’s royal stature, its name has been appropriated by several otherwise unrelated wines, such as Tokay d’Alsace (Alsatian Pinot Gris) Tocai Friulano (Friuli Sauvignon Vert), Rutherglen Tokay (Australian Muscadelle) and Ukrainian Tokay from Transcarpathia. Subsequent to the First World War and the Treaty of Trianon, Hungary lost ca. 70% of its pre-war land mass, and part of Tokaj was ceded to Slovakia, which may legally use the name if certain standards are met.

Béres Tokaji 3 Puttonyos : Aszú 2007
Vivid jonquil with luminous golden reflex, the nose is delicate and fragrant, offering nectarine, dried apricot, dried mango, crystallised tangerine and white clover honey, decorated with honeysuckle. Sustained by vibrant acidity and underlying minerality, the palate is multifarious and subtle, delivering pomelo peel, dried lemon, dried fig, caramel and marzipan, topped by petrol smoke. Densely textured and medium-full bodied at 11%, the lively entry carries onto an intense mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Béres Tokaji 5 Puttonyos: Aszú 2005
Rich amber with glossy copper reflex, the nose is aromatic and profound, presenting pineapple, dried nectarine, sultana, cinnamon and butterscotch, adorned with osmanthus. Supported by animated acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is evocative and penetrating, providing grapefruit peel, guava, passion fruit, dried apricot and nutmeg, elaborated with oaky smoke. Viscously textured and full-bodied at 10%, the voluptuous entry continues through a concentrated mid-palate, leading to a focused finish.

Béres Tokaji 6 Puttonyos: Aszú 2007
Bright amber with shimmering copper-golden reflex, the nose is luxurious and seductive, radiating apricot, ume, mango, dried peach, crystallised mandarin and cinnamon, embellished with cherry blossom. Underpinned by spirited acidity and pristine minerality, the palate is redolent yet suave, exuding lime peel, yuzu, mirabelle, dried apricot, dried fig, crème brûlée and nutmeg. Unctuously textured and full-bodied at 10%, the vivacious entry evolves into a succulent mid-palate, leading to a nuanced finish.

Regional Distributor: Veritas Wine; Contact: Ms Csilla Maróti Fisher; W: www.veritas-wine.com

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.