The Quintessence of Japan III

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan II” on 8 January 2016)

For all the cultural and technical similarities between sake and wine, the concept of rice polishing in sake brewing has no strict parallel in winemaking. Yet, as the Old World has hundreds of grape varieties (vitis vinifera), Japan has more than 100 rice varieties. Called shuzo kotekimai (literally: brewing-suitable rice), these rice varieties differ from staple rice varieties in that they contain more starch but less fat and protein.
There is no accounting for taste, but as a rule of thumb, the higher the fat and protein contents, the tastier the staple rice. In the context of sake brewing, however, fat and protein result in impure flavours and a more rustic style. Starch, on the other hand, leads to pure flavours and a more elegant style. In a rice kernel, fat and protein mainly exist in the exterior, whilst starch in the interior. To get rid of impure flavours, the exterior of rice kernels has to be polished off, in a process called seimai buai (literally: rice refining).
In terms of classification and regulation, rice polishing ratio (the percentage of remaining weight of a rice kernel; “RPR”) is of paramount importance. It is to Japan what must weight is to German wine. The lower the RPR, the higher the classified rank of the sake. RPRs between 60% and 50 percent are most common, around 40 percent are considered low, whereas some premium sakes have RPRs at as low as 20 percent.
RPR does not predetermine quality – although it partially does price level –
any more than the Prädikat designations in German wine. It would better be understood as a style, rather than a quality level. In general, sakes with higher RPRs tend to be fuller, pastoral and savoury, while those with lower RPRs tend to be leaner, fragrant and delicate, but there are numerous exceptions and revelations.
A brewery established in 1882 in Matsue, Shimane, was in 1928 renamed Rihaku (the Japanese rendition of Li Bai) in honour of the Tang dynasty poet. The poet was known to be an avid drinker, and his timeless verses are respectfully used as names of Rihaku’s sakes, indeed delicacies embodying East Asian cultural solidarity.

  Rihaku Gabizan Junmai
Made with rice at 68% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with creamy hues, the pure nose offers daikon, shiso and silken tofu. Medium-full bodied at 15% with an oily texture, the animated palate delivers greengage, glutinous rice and lily, leading to a saline finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Rihaku Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 55% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with beige hues, the refreshing nose presents Japanese pear, rice cracker and paperwhite. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a fleshy texture, the aromatic palate supplies white peach, chives and mochi, leading to a sweetish finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Rihaku Touka Sennin Tokubetsu Honjozo
Made with rice at 58% polishing ratio. Milky white with cloudy opaqueness, the lively nose furnishes pomelo, rock sugar and linden leaf. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a dense texture, the succulent palate provides Williams pear, dango and lotus, leading to a yeasty finish. Best served chilled.

Rihaku Taru Sake
Made with rice at 68% polishing ratio and matured in cedarwood barrels. Translucent clear with yellowish hues, the scented nose effuses ume, incense and daisy. Medium-bodied at 15% with a silky texture, the elegant palate emanates cloudberry, rice sponge and seawater, leading to a pristine finish. Best served chilled. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: [email protected]; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages