The Quintessence of Japan IV

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan III” on 4 March 2016)

Although independently conceived, Japanese sake classification and German wine classification bear an uncanny resemblance to each other. Whereas the latter anchors to must weight and minimum alcohol level, the former hinges on rice polishing ratio and whether or not brewer’s alcohol is added, in a way that is loosely similar to chaptalisation.
The practice of adding brewer’s alcohol probably began in the 17th century, when tojis (brewmasters) discovered that adding small amounts of alcohol helps extracting flavours and enhancing mouthfeel. Due to food shortages during WWII, the practice became necessary rather than optional. To this day, a clear majority of sakes is still produced with added brewer’s alcohol. Those that do not contain added brewer’s alcohol belong to the junmai (pure rice) category.
In ascending order, the basic level is called futsu-shu (ordinary sake), equivalent to German Qualitätswein. Corresponding to German Prädikatswein is tokutei meisho-shu (specifically designated sake), and that is where complexity increases exponentially. In the German wine classification system, there are 5 designations: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.
In the Japanese classification system, there are 4 designations: honjozo-shu (house brewed sake) / junmai-shu (pure rice sake), tokubetsu honjozo-shu (special house brewed sake) / tokubetsu junmai-shu (special pure rice sake), ginjo-shu (special brew sake) / junmai ginjo-shu (pure rice special brew sake) as well as daiginjo-shu (very special brew sake) / junmai daiginjo-shu (pure rice very special brew sake). For conciseness, the stem “-shu” is often omitted. The higher the level, the lower the rice polishing ratio, and generally the higher the price.
Somewhat counterintuitively, sake competitions in Japan tend to judge daiginjo rather than junmai daiginjo, since the production and application of brewer’s alcohol reflect an additional aspect of the brewmaster’s skills. As far as breweries are concerned, futsu-level sakes are the workhorse and economic mainstay, whereas tokutei meisho-level sakes are akin to demonstrations of quality and skills, or indeed works of art.
Established in 1912 in Higashihiroshima, Hiroshima, Kamoizumi is a standard-­bearer of junmai sakes. Most of its fine produce, often lightly-coloured, is brewed without using carbon filtration to preserve natural flavours, hence its distinctive style.

   Kamoizumi Nama Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 58% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with beige hues, the floral nose offers honeydew, rock sugar and ginger blossom. Medium-bodied at 15% with a delicate texture, the refreshing palate delivers loquat, chive and mochi, leading to a sweetish finish. Best served chilled.

Kamoizumi Zoka Junmai
Made with rice at 68% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with yellowish hues, the candid nose presents longan, leeks and paperwhite. Medium-full bodied at 15% with an oily texture, the piquant palate provides pitaya, daikon and rich cracker, leading to a spicy finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Kamoizumi Shusen Junmai Ginjo
Made with rice at 58% polishing ratio. Light citrine with pale marigold reflex, the potent nose furnishes chive, daffodil and cured meat. Medium-full bodied at 16% with a sturdy texture, the bucolic palate supplies hami melon, rice bran and seawater, leading to a saline finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Kamoizumi Kojyu Daiginjo
Made with rice at 35% polishing ratio. Translucent clear with beige hues, the airy nose effuses honeydew, springwater, wet stone and frangipane, Medium-bodied at 17% with a weightless texture, the graceful palate emanates mirabelle, sweet ginger, rice sponge and jasmine, leading ot a pristine finish. Best served chilled. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To be continued…

To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages