The Quintessence of Japan V

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan IV” on 25 March 2016)

Hierarchically, the designations of tokubetsu honjozo (special house brew) and tokubetsu junmai (special pure rice) may at first sight appear rather elementary in the pyramid of Japanese sake classification. Stylistically, however, they stand out as the most colourful category, comprising a wide range of specialities. It is worth bearing in mind that designations in the Japanese sake classification system, with an uncanny resemblance to the German wine classification system, would better be understood as styles rather than quality levels.
Due to the biological composition of rice, the fermentation process in sake brewing is considerably more complicated than in beer brewing and winemaking, i.e. koji, starter mash and main mash have to be made sequentially and meticulously. The various ways they are handled can lead to noticeable differences in the taste profile of the final product.
Historically, kimoto is the conventional method for making starter mash, whereby rice is ground into a consistent paste by hand. Since it requires substantial time and manpower, as the age of industrialisation dawns on Japan, starting from the early 20th century many breweries turned to the yamahai method, essentially a simplified version of kimoto, doing away with the strenuous step of making paste. With technological breakthroughs in the second half of the 20th century, the quicker sokujo method is preferred.
Regarded as speciality methods nowadays, kimoto and yamahai can produce earthy, “rice-y” (vis-à-vis malty) and sturdy sakes, which hold up well after opening and can be served at varying temperatures. Due to the climate in East Asia, sake used to be brewed only in winter, then shipped in spring and / or autumn, so that the fine liquids would not be spoiled by high temperature. In the olden days when there was no refrigeration and even now, kimoto and yamahai sakes score high marks for their ease of transport and storage.
Established in 1872 in Haga, Tochigi, Sohomare has been managed by the same Kono family ever since. Sohomare is revered for its adherence to, and mastery of, the kimoto method. The fifth generation and current toji, Jun Kono, studied in France and speaks fluent French. If the elegance and finesse of Sohomare sakes resemble white burgundies, could it be the result of Monsieur Kono’s French connection?

  Sohomare Kimoto
Tokubetsu Honjozo
Made with 100% Yamadanishiki at 65% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with vanilla hues, the aromatic nose presents Japanese pear, rock sugar and paperwhite. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a supple texture, the potent palate supplies Hami melon, rice cracker and ginger blossom, leading to a piquant finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Sohomare Gohyakumangoku
Junmai Ginjo
Made with 100% Gohyakumangoku at 55% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with cream hues, the fragrant nose provides honeydew, mocha and lily. Medium-bodied at 15% with a refined texture, the elegant palate furnishes pomelo, rice sponge and chive, leading to a moreish finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Sohomare Gohyakumangoku
Junmai Daiginjo
Made with 100% Gohyakumangoku at 55% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with beige hues, the pristine nose effuses Fuji apple, bamboo forest and daffodil. Medium-bodied  at 15% with a delicate texture, the sophisticated palate emanates longan, seawater and frangipane, leading to a savoury finish. Best served chilled.

To be continued…

To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: [email protected]; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages