The Quintessence of Japan VI

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan V” on 20 May 2016)

Traditionally, Japanese sake is measured by portions of 180ml (a “go”). Comprising 4 such portions, a standard sake bottle contains 720ml, merely 30ml less than a standard wine bottle. The 180ml format is still popular in izakayas and restaurants, as well as in supermarkets and convenience stores. Next level up is the 360ml format, followed by the 1800ml format, indeed the sake version of a magnum.
Whereas wines contained in larger formats are reputed to age more slowly and steadily than those in standard 750ml bottles, formats do not seem to affect the taste of sake. In fact, barring a few of exceptions, sake does not improve in quality with ageing in the bottle; its quality may hold up for a year, but will eventually decline. The rule of thumb is that once a sake is released, it is ready to be enjoyed. This is particularly true for seasonal sakes, of which a brewery may produce one for each season, which are recommended to be consumed during that particular season.
Identical to wine, sake is best kept in a cool and dark place, as heat, light and vibration could lead to spoilage. Most sakes nowadays use screw caps, so fault rate is low. After opening, sake is best enjoyed within a few hours, especially for the more delicate ones. Refrigerated, opened bottles should last for 2 to 3 days, while Traditional kimoto and yamahai styles tend to last longer. Even after weeks, when a sake has lost most of its flavour, just like wine, it can still be used in cooking.
Established in 1870 in Hakusan, Ishikawa, Tedorigawa has remained a family-owned smallholding in northern Japan since its foundation. It is the subject of Masako Tsumura’s The Birth of Saké (2015) (www.birthofsake.com), an award-winning documentary film on the painstaking process of sake brewing, indeed a labour of love with a sense of pride.

  Tedorigawa Yamahai Junmai
Made with a blend of Yamadanishiki and Gohyakumangoku at 60% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with beige hues, the forward nose offers loquat, daikon and lotus. Medium-full bodied at 15% with a rounded texture, the sturdy palate delivers chive, radish and glutinous rice cake, leading to a piquant finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Tedorigawa Shukon Junmai Ginjo
Made with a blend of Yamadanishiki and Gohyakumangoku at 50% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with cream hues, the fragrant nose presents longan, mochi and daffodil. Medium-bodied at 15% with a danty texture, the delicate palate supplies musk melon, rice sponge and paperwhite, leading to a savoury finish. Best served chilled.

Tedorigawa Honryu Junmai Daiginjo
Made with 100% Yamadanishiki at 40% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with vanilla hues, the pristine nose effuses Fuji apple, wet stone and ginger blossom. Medium-bodied at 15% with a supple texture, the elegant palate emanates Japanese pear, garden herbs and jasmine, leading to a sweetish finish. Best served chilled.

To be continued…

To discover the charm of Japanese sake, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores No. 354-408, Edificio Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4F.

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages