The Quintessence of Japan VII

(Continued from “The Quintessence of Japan VI” on 9 June 2016)

Juxtaposed with wine, the vast majority of which is fined and filtered, sake has an unusually wide array of pre-bottling treatment options post-fermentation. To begin with, the natural alcoholic strength of sake is generally 18%-20%, but most sakes are diluted down to 15%-16% prior to bottling. Undiluted sakes may add “genshu” (literally: original liquor) to its label. While most sakes are pasteurised, those that did not undergo pasteurisation may add “namazake” (literally: raw sake) to its label; this style is meant to be seasonal and consumed young, and refrigeration is a must.
Although most sakes do benefit from maturation ranging from a few months to a full year, extended maturation is uncommon, and sakes do not improve in quality after bottling. Aged for years and sometimes decades, “koshu” (literally: aged sake) is an expensive rarity. With years of controlled oxidation, sakes of this style acquire darker colours as well as honeyed and nutty flavours, not unlike Sherry, Marsala and Madeira. Meanwhile, wood influence is generally negligible in sake, with the notable exception of “taruzake” (literally: bottled sake), a style which requires the fine liquid to be aged in barrels made with mugi (Japanese cedar), resulting in a balsamically fragrant sake.
Whether sake is pressed and separated from its lees gives rise to a further variety of styles. Well pressed and thoroughly filtered, the transparently clear “seishu” (literally: clear sake) is perhaps the most common style. If pressed but unfiltered, the sake may add “muroka” (literally: without filtration) to its label. Sakes that were pressed but did not undergo maturation can be labelled as “shiboritate” (literally: freshly pressed). A particularly painstaking method, “fukurozuri” (literally: suspended bag) allows the sake to be filtered under its own weight without external pressure, and the sake produced is called “shizukuzake” (literally: drip sake). Still containing much rice sediment, the “nigorkizake” (literally: cloudy sake) style is appreciated for its full flavours.
Established in 1916 in Joetsu, Niigata, Musashino Shuzo has been run by the Kobayashi family for four generations and counting. Renowned for its pure water source and high quality rice, Niigata, a prefecture, is home to about 100 of the 1,500 sake breweries in Japan.

  Kasugayama Tentochi Honjozo
Made with a blend of Gohyakumangoku and Koshiibuki at 65% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with beige hues, the aromatic nose offers hami melon, chive and rock sugar. Full-bodied at 15% with an oily texture, the potent palate delivers rice sponge, shitake mushroom and sweet ginger, leading to a savoury finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Kasugayama Tentochi Junmai Daiginjo
Made with 100% Koshi Tanrei at 40% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with cream hues, the floral nose presents Japanese pear, crystal sugar and paperwhite. Medium-full bodied at 16% with a supple texture, the elegant palate supplies daikon, wagashi and bamboo shoot, leading to a fresh finish. Best served chilled.

Ski Masamune Hana Daiginjo
Made with 100% Koshi Tanrei at 40% polishing ratio. Transparent clear with cream hues, the brooding nose furnishes leek, miso and lily. Medium-full bodied at 17% with a rounded texture, the sturdy palate provides horseradish, salted plum and rice cracker, leading to a spicy finish. Can be served chilled, at room temperature or warm.

Available at Grand Wine Cellar; W: www.gwc.com.hk; E:
[email protected]; T: +852 3695 2389

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain,
France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages