The Shades of Green II

(Continued from “The Shades of Green” on 1 October 2014)

The term “Vinho Verde” not only refers to the particular style of refreshing and often slightly petillant whites produced in northwestern Portugal, but it also indicates the wine region, indeed the biggest of the country. Confusingly, wine regions in Portugal do not always fit neatly into the country’s administrative divisions. Whereas Portuguese wine regulations have seen substantial changes over the past decades, changes in Portugal’s administrative divisions over the last 200 years have been even more complicated.
Entre-Douro-e-Minho (literally: Between-Douro-and-Minho) is one of the 6 historical provinces of Portugal since medieval times. Subsequent to reforms in 1832 under the Kingdom of Portugal and 1936 under the Second Republic, also known as the Estado Novo (literally: New State), it was split into the provinces of Minho and Douro Litoral, which finally became today’s 18 districts.
Outside of Portugal, little known is the fact that the southeastern edge of Vinho Verde borders with Douro, where many of Portugal’s finest gems and the majestic Port come from. It would appear less surprising, therefore, that Vinho Verde does produce full-bodied, richly coloured and strongly flavoured reds, even if overshadowed by its illustrious neighbour.
With nearly 500 years of history, Quinta de Covela is a leading estate in southern Vinho Verde, known for its adventurous style. Possessing fine vineyards with granitic soil located on the right bank of the Douro river, the estate adheres to organic viticulture and insists on natural yeast (spontaneous fermentation), manual harvest plot by plot, little fining and filtering.

  Quinta de Covela Escolha Branco 2013
An imaginative blend of Avesso and Chardonnay, briefly macerated and spontaneously fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. Light citrine with pale golden reflex, the nose is lifted and refreshing, offering calamansi, lime and peach for fruits, decorated by elderflower and wet stone. Braced by piercing acidity and palpable minerality, the palate is clean and tantalising, delivering bergamot, green apple, apricot and greengage for fruits, infused with cut grass. Medium-bodied at 13%, the tangy entry continues through a fleshy mid-palate, leading to a focused finish.

Quinta de Covela Escolha Tinto 2005
An innovative blend of Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, spontaneously fermented under temperature control and underwent prolonged maceration. Dark garnet with carmine-ruby rim, the nose is redolent and smoky, effusing cassis and damson for fruits, enriched by smoked bacon and cedarwood. Supported by ample acidity and clear tannins, the palate is firm and mature, providing black cherry and prune for fruits, augmented by leather and cigar. Medium-full bodied at 13.5%, the fruity entry evolves into a vegetal mid-palate, leading to a potent finish.

Quinta de Covela Colheita Selecionada Tinto 2004
An inventive blend of Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, fermented under temperature control, underwent prolonged maceration and matured in French oak. Deep garnet with carmine-ruby rim, the nose is aromatic and complex, emanating blackberry, black cherry and cassis confit for fruits, complemented by cocoa and sandalwood. Buttressed by generous acidity and tasty tannins, the palate is developed and rich, supplying bilberry, damson and prune for fruits, enhanced by allspice and wild mushroom. Medium-full bodied at 14%, the creamy entry transforms into a corpulent mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish. Jacky I.F. Cheong

To discover the charm of Vinho Verde, contact Mr Pedro Lobo of Palatium Fine Wines; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages