The Shades of Green

Situated in the northwestern edge of Portugal facing the Atlantic Ocean, Vinho Verde is a little world of intrigue unto itself. First mentioned by Roman philosopher Lucius Annaeus Seneca and naturalist Gaius Plinius Secundus, Vinho Verde wines were likely to have been exported to England, Germany and the Low Countries in as early as the 12th century.
With 21,000ha under vine tended by nearly 30,000 growers, it accounts for 15% of Portugal’s viticultural area. Vinho Verde literally means “green wine”, but it actually indicates “young wine”, to be consumed soon after bottling, as opposed to vin de garde. Indeed, wines produced from this lushly verdant region can be white, rosé or red, whether still or sparkling.
As in other cool-climate regions, humidity and the relative lack of sunshine are the main challenges Vinho Verde faces. To maximise sunshine exposure and to save space for other crops, many farmers train their vines high up on trees, fences, and even telephone poles. Where grapes do achieve satisfactory ripeness, Vinho Verde wines are irresistibly refreshing with slight petillance, high acidity and low alcohol. It is not uncommon to encounter wines with alcohol level between 8.5% and 11% – a breath of fresh air in today’s bigger-the-better trend.
Vinho Verde comprises a total of 9 subregions (Amarante, Ave, Baião, Basto, Cávado, Lima, Melgaço, Monção, Paiva and Sousa), all named after rivers or towns. Outstanding in both quality and reputation, Alvarinho from Melgaço and Monção might be Portugal’s response to Germanic Riesling (minus the ageing ability). Due to its phenolic profile, Alvarinho (literally: white Rhine) was for long mistaken as a Riesling clone from Alsace brought to Iberia by the Cluny monks from Burgundy. Vinho Verde has a host of other intriguing varieties and wines, often at extremely attractive prices. For the avid wine lover, this region is a treasure trove to be opened.

Quinta de Curvos Loureiro 2013
A single-varietal Loureiro (literally: laurel), a light-skinned and vigorous variety from Vinho Verde (Portugal) and Rías Baixas (Spain), capable of producing wines combining excellent acidity with low alcohol. Bright citrine with light golden reflex, the lifted nose offers gooseberry, physalis, pomelo and guava, imbued with bay leaf. Braced by crispy acidity and slight petilliance, the exotic palate delivers lemon peel, lime, custard apple and pineapple, infused with fresh herbs. Medium-light bodied at 12%, the citrusy entry continues through a stimulating mid-palate, leading to a refreshing finish.

Quinta de Curvos Avesso 2013
A single-varietal Avesso (literally: reverse), a vigorous and hardy variety known for producing wines with low acidity and high alcohol, contrary to other Vinho Verde varieties, hence its unusual name. Bright citrine with pale golden reflex, the invigorating nose provides yuzu, pink apple, European pear and apricot, elaborated with frangipani. Supported by juicy acidity and slight petillance, the fruit-driven palate supplies lemon, tangerine, green apple, greengage and starfruit. Medium-bodied at 13%, the fragrant entry carries onto a tangy mid-palate, leading to a fleshy finish.

Quinta de Curvos Rosé 2013
A blend of 80% Vinhão and 20% Espadeiro: the former is a quasi-teinturier variety from western Iberia and which is now becoming increasingly popular in the Douro region, the latter is a dark-skinned, rustic and vigorous variety; both are also used across the Luso-Spanish border in Rías Baixas. Rich American rose with bright rosso corsa-scarlet reflex, the floral nose effuses white cherry, strawberry, raspberry and hawthorn, decorated with geranium. Sustained by joyous acidity and slight petillance, the energetic palate emanates redcurrant, cranberry, pomegranate and rose hip, enriched with Lady Grey tea. Medium-bodied at 11.5%, the succulent entry evolves into a redolent mid-palate, leading to a persistent finish.

Available at Palatium Fine Wines; Contact: Mr Pedro Lobo; W: www.palatiumwines.com; E: pedro.lobo@palatiumwines.com; T: +852 2875 0782

by Jacky I.F. Cheon

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages