The Spirit of Japan III

(Continued from “The Spirit of Japan II” on 24 October 2014)

Cognoscenti of wine, brandy and whisky would often find shochu both intriguing and confusing. For starters, the lack of established glossary makes it difficult for foreigners to approach the subject. Although proud of its origin as other products in Japan, shochu does not traditionally have an appellation system. Therefore, knowledge of Japanese geography, history and language appears a prerequisite. Moreover, professional ratings and tasting notes remain rather few and far between.
As shochu has gained in popularity in recent years, effort has been made to communicate with a more international audience. The English website of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association offers a good starting point. Meanwhile, the creation of shochu appellations seems to herald a new era. There are currently four appellations: Iki (barley shochu from Nagasaki), Kuma (rice shochu from Kumamoto), Ryuku Awamori (long-grained rice shochu from Okinawa) and Satsuma (sweet potato shochu from Kagoshima) appellations.
Family traditions and individual styles remain entrenched in Japan, as producers tend not to supply products – whether finished or semi-finished – to one another as in Armagnac, Calvados or Cognac, which helps preserve various styles. In addition to water hardness, ingredients and fermenting / malting process, the diverse production and use of koji (aspergillus oryzae) – a filamentous fungus or mold – in saccharifying starch adds another yet another layer of stylistic diversity of shochu.

   Miyasaka Suwa Yuzu Liquor Masumi
Made with 100% Honkaku Shochu and Japanese yuzu. Milky lemon-yellow in appearance, the clear and lifted nose offers yuzu peel, bergamot and sweet ginger, decorated by lemon blossom. Off-sweet and medium-light bodied at 14%, the pure and refreshing palate delivers yuzu, kumquat, calamansi and pickled daikon.

Fujii-shuzo Yokaichi Honkaku Shochu Shirashinken
Made with 100% Japanese barley from Oita and black barley yeast, fermentation was completed under low temperature. Pure transparent in appearance, the bucolic and potent nose emanates white cherry and rice cake, imbued with genmaicha. Thoroughly dry and medium-full bodied at 25%, the energetic and roasted palate supplies black seasame, chive and puffed wheat.

Miyasaka Suwa Honkaku Sake Kasu Shochu Sumi 20
Made with sake kasu (sake lees) of rice produced in Hyogo and Nagano. Pure transparent in appearance, the delicate and purifying nose effuses spring water and bamboo forest, adorned with sunflower. Thoroughly dry and medium-bodied at 20%, the clean and floral palate provides pear and glutinous rice pudding, infused with lily.

Komaki-jozo Kagoshima Honkaku Imo Shochu Ikkomon
Made with 100% sweet potato from southern Kyushu and sweet potato yeast, this very fine shochu comes in limited edition earthware jar. “Ikkomon” means “stubborn” in the local dialect, pointing to the painstaking distillation process. Pure transparent in appearance, the complex and floral nose radiates dried pear, wagashi and rice sponge, adorned by cherry blossom. Vaguely sweet and full-bodied at 27%, the intense and redolent palate oozes apricot, pickled daikon, leek and sweet potato cake.

To discover the hidden treasure of Japanese shochu, contact Mr John Ng of Agência Superar; E: john@superar.com.mo; T: 2871 9978; F: 2871 7936; A: Rua dos Pescadores 76-84, Edifício Industrial Nam Fung Bloco II, Andar 4G.

by Jacky I.F. Cheong

Jacky I.F. Cheong is a legal professional by day and columnist by night. Having spent his formative years in Britain, France, and Germany, he regularly writes about wine, fine arts, classical music, and politics in several languages.