SUBTLETIES OF A GOLDEN ERA

Contrary to what we normally think of a Chinese Northerner, Master Liu Guo Zhu of Golden Flower in Wynn Macau is extremely soft-spoken. As a Master of Chinese gastronomy who had worked in Beijing Hotel, Liu had prepared culinary wonders for many dignitaries around the world before coming to Macau, which included Deng Xiaopeng, Henry Kissenger, and Queen of England.
“What dishes did Deng Xiaopeng like the most from you?” I ask.
“He was not particularly picky and liked simple dishes. Very easy to deal with,” he explains, as if talking about just another normal guy next door.
For a Master of such magnitude, keeping the cool and staying calm under enormous pressure would be a given, but it is something else that strikes me in his extraordinary demeanor. Indeed, never have I met a chef who exudes an air of humility and tranquility like he does. For those of us who know him well, we call him “Papa Liu,” because he greets everyone warmly like a loving father.
In a relaxed and nonchalant manner, he politely starts to passionately explain the essence of Tan cuisine, an aristocratic culinary tradition passed on from the Qing dynasty.
“Tan cuisine was originated in the household of Tan Zongjun. Originally from Canton, Tan was an official of the late Qing dynasty who had an immense passion for gastronomy. Due to the fact that he was a Cantonese who had taken residence in Beijing, he brought the culinary elements of the Southern cuisine to the North, blending the best of both worlds to create an exquisite cuisine that pleases the palette delicately with its subtle flavors,” Master Liu says.
In my opinion, the beauty of the Tan cuisine could be compared to the many aesthetic characteristics of the Qing Dynasty; a painted enamel pot from the Qing Dynasty might have a very simple, clean silhouette, but the craftsmanship and precision that went into producing the remarkable masterpiece is awe-inspiring. Visually, the dishes of Tan cuisine deceive us in thinking that they are simple as its flavors are subtle, yet the preparations are far from “simple.”
The essence of the Tan cuisine is the broth that supports the flavors of its many dishes. Using a combination of chicken, duck, Chinese ham and many other ingredients, the broth needs at least eight hours for preparation. A complex process of purification follows thereafter to create a broth that is as clear as water, yet containing the quintessence of the ingredients; the Fresh clam and jasmine in chicken soup would be a prime example of such sophistication. The broth is clear as morning dew, flavorful yet never overwhelming on the palette. Another dish that highlights the traits of Tan cuisine seamlessly would be the stewed fish maw with crab claw in supreme chicken soup. The fish maw is soaked in the thick, golden supreme chicken broth, rich in flavors, but never intense.
After all, it is fair to say that only individuals with a sophisticated palette would appreciate the nuance of such delicacies. In a world where the flavors of food are enhanced by MSG and other additives, the Tan cuisine at Golden Flower is one of its kind. Tan Zongjun was an aristocrat who lived in the Qing Dynasty and his lavish lifestyle is, in truth, irreverent to our modern lives.
“What disappoints me the most about modern life gastronomically is the fact that ingredients are very different from what we got in the past. Let me explain precisely. 30 or 40 years ago, when we got a chicken and opened it up, the fat inside was yellow in color, rich and intense. These days, the fat from a chicken is white and the taste of the chicken is not as intense. Therefore, we in the kitchen compensate the lost of color with the color of carrot extracted naturally by our team,” he comments.
A dining experience at Wynn Macau’s Golden Flower constantly reminds us of how dull our modern life is. Even for a Chinese billionare who lives in modern 21st centuries’ Beijing, the city has transformed into a concrete jungle where pollution is literally killing its inhabitants. Enjoying Tan cuisine is not only precious as a dining adventure, but it also gives us a glimpse of the past, a past that can only be lived in our own imagination.